TOKYO, JAPAN

Tokyo Travel Guide: Big, Brash, & Wonderfully Wacky

A First-Time Visitor’s Perspective on Navigating Japan’s Vast, Complex, and Ever-Changing Metropolis, from Bustling Districts to Quiet Backstreets
Tokyo 東京 도쿄 东京 โตเกียว طوكيو টোকিও Токио टोक्यो ਟੋਕੀਓ ( Japan 日本 일본 日本 ญี่ปุ่น ( Travel 旅行 여행 旅行 การท่องเที่ยว Shibuya 渋谷시부야 涩谷 ชิบุยะ

Tokyo, a metropolitan area home to 14 million people, has been on my travel bucket list for over 35 years. It’s a destination I’ve longed to experience, and thankfully, in recent years, Japan has become more affordable, partly due to the depreciation of the yen.
Tokyo is not a place you can simply visit for a few hours. Its vastness and the many distinct vibes across its diverse districts demand a lot more time and attention. For my trip, I spent five nights in a capsule hotel in the bustling Akasaka district, with one day set aside for a day trip to Yokohama. With cool weather, excellent public transport, and my love for walking, the biggest challenge I faced wasn’t navigating Tokyo—it was managing the blisters on my feet from all the exploration!

Tokyo – Commercial Titan

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building
View from Tokyo Metropolitan Building

Tokyo is the economic powerhouse of Japan, with a one trillion-dollar economy, and it serves as both the seat of the Japanese government and the residence of the Emperor of Japan. The Greater Tokyo Area, which includes nearby Yokohama, is home to an astounding 41 million people.

It’s incredible to think that before the 17th century, Tokyo was a small fishing village known as Edo. Today, it is one of the most powerful and culturally significant regions in the world. Despite its urbanization, Tokyo remains close to nature, with iconic views of Mount Fuji about 100 kilometres southwest, offering a peaceful contrast to the city’s vibrant energy. Tokyo isn’t just a place to visit; it’s an experience to be fully immersed in. From its rich history to its role as a global economic centre, Tokyo Metropolis is a fascinating urban landscape full of life, culture, and innovation.

What actually is Tokyo?

When referring to Tokyo, it’s important to understand that it is not actually a city in the traditional sense. Instead, Tokyo is officially known as Tokyo Metropolis (Tokyo-to), and it functions as a unique administrative region in Japan.

Tokyo Metropolis is one of Japan’s 47 prefectures and is home to approximately 14 million people, making it the most populous urban area in the country. However, unlike cities that are governed by a single mayor, Tokyo is divided into 23 special wards, each functioning as an independent city, complete with its own mayor and local government. These wards, including well-known areas like Shibuya, Shinjuku, and Chiyoda, are what most visitors recognize as Tokyo.

Beyond the 23 special wards, Tokyo Metropolis also includes 26 additional cities, five towns, and eight villages, many of which are located on the outskirts or even on remote islands such as the Izu and Ogasawara archipelagos. Each of these cities and towns operates with its own local administration, but they collectively fall under the umbrella of Tokyo Metropolis.

The governance of Tokyo is unique. While each special ward is managed by its own city council and mayor, the entire region of Tokyo Metropolis is overseen by a governor and a metropolitan assembly. This dual-level system allows Tokyo to manage its vast and diverse urban and suburban areas effectively.

Understanding Tokyo as a metropolitan area rather than a single city provides a clearer picture of its complexity. It is not one unified city, but a sprawling network of cities, wards, towns, and villages, all interconnected and forming the heart of Japan’s capital region.

Tokyo Kabukicho Shinjuku

How do you get around Tokyo?

One look at the Tokyo metro map is enough to make cartographers question their life choices. The sheer complexity of it almost struck fear into my heart—and I wasn’t even in Japan yet. I was in Vietnam, preparing for the trip and psyching myself up. Slowly but surely, I started to make sense of the chaos, and during my stay in Tokyo, I used the metro constantly. But even with all that prep, I still had to stop and recalibrate more times than I care to admit. The signage, though in English, wasn’t always as helpful as you’d hope, and I ended up on the wrong train a few times. But hey, that’s all part of the Tokyo experience, right? At least the Japanese commuters didn’t seem to mind when my brain occasionally short-circuited trying to figure it all out.

Most of the spots I wanted to hit were accessible via the Tokyo metro system, and a great travel card made exploring the city super affordable. You can snag a 24-hour ticket for 800 yen (about $5 USD in 2024), a 48-hour pass, or the 72-hour option, which I went for, costing 1,500 yen (about $9.50 USD). These passes let me pack a ton of exploring into a short time frame.

Suica- The payment card for most of Japan

That said, there were moments when I needed transport outside the 72-hour window or for routes not covered by the card. For those occasions, I highly recommend getting a stored-value card. In Tokyo, it’s called Suica, and in Osaka, Pasmo—but both work seamlessly across Japan (except for the Shinkansen bullet trains). Heads up, though: there’s been a chip shortage, so buying physical cards might be tricky. If you’ve got a relatively recent smartphone that supports eSIMs, you can load the card digitally. That’s what I did—just tapped my phone at the ticket barriers, and it worked flawlessly every time.

I even connected my Suica card to my Wise UK account for seamless fare deductions. No fumbling with tickets, no guessing games at the vending machines—just smooth, efficient travel. Honestly, with the metro system being as intricate as it is, anything that saves time and stress is worth it. And trust me, once you get the hang of it, navigating Tokyo’s labyrinthine train network becomes part of the adventure.

 

Tokyo 72 hour ticket metro
Holding my travel pass
Suica card
Suica on my iphone
Riding on the metro

Shibuya – key transport hub for Tokyo and the famous crossing

Shibuya is a special ward of Tokyo and home to two of the busiest railway stations in the world: Shibuya Station and Shinjuku Station. Shinjuku Station, officially recognized as the busiest station globally, boasts over 200 exits, though only about half fall within Shibuya’s boundaries. This area serves as a major interchange hub, not just for public transport riders but also for pedestrians navigating its bustling streets.

The centrepiece for many visitors is the iconic Shibuya Scramble Crossing [map], inaugurated in 1973. Known for its mesmerizing chaos, the crossing sees approximately 3,000 pedestrians traverse it every cycle, making it one of the most photographed and filmed locations in Tokyo. I experienced the crossing both in the morning and during the evening rush hour while using Shibuya Station for a day trip to Yokohama. The sheer volume of people was awe-inspiring, creating an almost choreographed flow of humanity.

Shibuya is also a growing centre of modern architecture and urban development. Shibuya Stream, a sleek skyscraper and retail complex, was completed in 2018, offering a mix of dining, shopping, and office spaces. Shibuya Scramble Square, another mixed-use skyscraper, saw its East Wing completed in August 2019 and features an observation deck with stunning city views.

While the crossing is undoubtedly a fun addition to any Japanese bucket list, the surrounding area prioritizes functionality as a transport hub. As a result, it lacks some of the charm and character found in other districts of Tokyo. However, its energy and infrastructure reflect the dynamic, fast-paced nature of modern Tokyo.

Shibuya Scramble Crossing
Tokyo Shibuya Scramble Crossing Tony Picon Chestertons
Doing the scramble
Tokyo Shibuya Scramble Crossing 東京 도쿄 东京 โตเกียว طوكيو টোকিও Токио टोक्यो ਟੋਕੀਓ ( Japan 日本 일본 日本 ญี่ปุ่น ( Travel 旅行 여행 旅行 การท่องเที่ยว 渋谷시부야 涩谷 ชิบุยะ
Shibuya Scramble Square
Shibuya Scramble Square
Shibuya Scramble Square

Akasaka: A Blend of Sophistication and Subtle Charm in Tokyo

Akasaka, located in the heart of Tokyo, is renowned for its upscale hotels, fine dining establishments, and corporate offices. However, the area also offers quieter, more unassuming neighborhoods like the one I stayed in during my visit.

One of Akasaka’s most notable landmarks is Tokyo Midtown [map], a sprawling 569,000-square-meter mixed-use development. While technically closer to Roppongi Station, Tokyo Midtown is a centerpiece for the district. Built on the former site of a U.S. military airbase, the complex is surrounded by Hinokicho Park, a serene green space that contrasts starkly with the imposing modern architecture of the buildings. This juxtaposition creates a unique harmony between nature and urbanity.

Developed by Mitsui Fudosan, one of Japan’s largest real estate firms, Tokyo Midtown houses Midtown Tower, which stands at 248 meters, making it the second-tallest building in Tokyo Prefecture. Inside the complex, you’ll find the Galleria, a five-level luxury shopping mall offering high-end retail experiences, and the prestigious Ritz-Carlton Hotel, catering to discerning travelers.

Akasaka blends the cosmopolitan appeal of its modern developments with pockets of tranquility, making it a compelling area to explore within Tokyo. Whether you’re visiting for business or leisure, it provides a diverse range of experiences to suit every preference.

Nearby, you’ll find serene spots like Nogi Park and Nogi Shrine [map], both offering a peaceful escape from the bustling city. Nogi Shrine is notably the site where General Nogi and his wife tragically chose to end their lives following the death of Emperor Meiji. Despite the historical significance, these tranquil locations are often quiet, with few visitors, providing a much-needed pause to reflect and recharge after a day of intense exploration.

Tokyo Midtown
Tokyo Midtown
Tokyo Midtown
Galleria - Tokyo Midtown
Galleria Tokyo Midtown
Galleria - Tokyo Midtown
Tokyo Nogi Shrine shinto
Nogi Shrine

Koto City – Tokyo’s Chaotic New Development Area

Koto City, located in southeastern Tokyo, is an area you might pass through on your way to Tokyo Disneyland. Much of it is built on reclaimed land developed over centuries since the Edo period in the 17th century. While distinctive from Tokyo’s far denser neighbourhoods, Koto City was the only place I visited where my 72-hour subway pass could not be used—the subway doesn’t connect the key areas. Instead, I relied on the Yurikamome Line, Tokyo’s first fully automated transit system, introduced in 1995 to serve the area.

Eager to explore beyond the usual tourist spots, I was drawn to Koto City’s promise of space and less conventional attractions. Unfortunately, it lacks a cohesive vibe, and connections between places are poorly designed. Japan is renowned for its Transport-Oriented Development, seamlessly linking real estate to transit networks, but Koto City feels like a glaring exception.

Planning flaws

In one farcical example, at one station next to a mall, visitors must exit to the ground floor and climb back up another set of stairs—without an escalator—to enter. At another station, reaching the malls involves navigating a car park. These inefficiencies might be excusable when retrofitting infrastructure in older districts, but Koto City is a greenfield development, making its disjointed design feel particularly disappointing. The malls themselves are generally underwhelming, with limited ground-floor access and poor connectivity between them.

That said, the waterfront area offers a pleasant escape, complete with a small Statue of Liberty (about a seventh the size of the original). The district also has an impressive amount of open space compared to Tokyo’s busier areas, along with a few interesting spots. One quirky highlight is the Tokyo Sewage Museum [map], geared toward helping children understand this hidden but vital service. The most iconic structure is the Fuji TV Building, which features a Spherical Observation Room for 800 yen (as of 2024). Koto City has potential, but as it stands, it feels more like a collection of missed opportunities than a truly integrated part of Tokyo.

Tokyo Decks Toyo Beach
Entrance Tokyo Decks Toyo Beach
Fuji TV Tower
Fuji TV Building
Tokyo Sewerage Museum
Center Promenade (Symbol Promenade Park) and Tokyo Baycourt Club Hotel (left)

Shinjuku City – Tokyo’s capital of crazy

If you want to experience the quirky, eccentric side of Japanese culture, Shinjuku is the place to be. This vibrant ward within the Tokyo Metropolitan Area is not only a bustling commercial hub with international-grade offices but is also famous for its entertainment and shopping scene, particularly around Shinjuku Station. For many visitors, the main draw is Kabukicho, Japan’s largest red-light district, which offers a mix of neon lights, nightlife, and curious cultural displays.

In Kabukicho, you’ll encounter the usual hustlers trying to lure you into their bars, but as is typical in such areas, it’s best to simply stroll around and keep your wallet tucked away for more worthwhile activities. I visited during the early evening when it seemed a bit quieter, as I wasn’t up for much at night after a long day of exploring. Still, the district had a charmingly eerie atmosphere, especially with the line of maids and posters of effeminate male hosts plastered across the walls—adding a strange, almost surreal touch to the scene.

Golden Gai

Within Kabukicho, there’s also Golden Gai [map], a small yet fascinating nightlife area packed with over 200 tiny bars and eateries, each with its own unique character. While I wandered around Golden Gai in the evening, I was too exhausted and, not being a drinker, had no desire to indulge in the area’s famous bar-hopping culture.

Omoide Yokocho

North of the station lies Omoide Yokocho, a narrow alley that captures the nostalgic atmosphere of post-war Japan. Often referred to as Piss Alley, the name harks back to the 1950s, when the area served as a makeshift drinking spot with few sanitation facilities, leading to its infamous reputation. The alley now contains many small bars and snack shops especially grilled chicken sticks.

Despite all the wackiness, Shinjuku also offers quiet spots of respite. In fact, there’s a lovely short path with greenery that runs through the area, evoking the peaceful walks found in the City of London’s square mile—a stark contrast to the surrounding hustle and bustle. This blend of calm and chaos makes Shinjuku an intriguing and unique part of Tokyo.

Tokyo Kabukicho Shinjuku
Kabukicho Shinjuku
Tokyo Shinjuku Golden-Gai
Tokyo Shinjuku Golden-Gai

Images of Kabukicho

Roppongi - The upmarket district of Tokyo

Roppongi, a district in central Tokyo, is known for its upscale atmosphere and vibrant international presence. While I was only able to spend a brief time in the area, Roppongi made a strong impression as one of Tokyo’s most cosmopolitan neighborhoods. Following the development of high-rise landmarks like Roppongi Hills and Izumi Garden Complex in the early 2000s, the district has evolved into a modern blend of business, residential, and leisure spaces.

The area has become particularly popular with well-to-do expats, partly due to the presence of numerous embassies, including the U.S. Embassy, which has contributed to a more global, diverse community. It’s home to luxury shopping centers, upscale restaurants, and a number of foreign-owned businesses, making it an attractive location for those seeking a more international lifestyle in Tokyo.

Though my time was limited, it was evident that Roppongi’s nightlife is one of its main draws. The district offers a wide range of venues to suit various tastes, from chic bars and lounges to bustling nightclubs, making it one of the city’s key nightlife destinations. Cultural offerings like the Mori Art Museum, showcasing contemporary art, and the Tokyo Midtown complex with its shopping and dining options, add a cultural touch to the area’s lively atmosphere.

Tokyo Roppongi Tony Picon Chestertons Colliers
Roppongi station area
Street in Roppongi
Bizzare Store!

Nakano – the popular commuter town of Tokyo

Located near Shinjuku, Nakano is a popular commuter town and a hub for anime, manga, and subculture enthusiasts. A highlight of the area is Nakano Broadway, a famous shopping mall that opened in 1966 during Japan’s period of rapid economic growth and cultural Americanization. The mall reflects the spirit of that era and features a unique mix of tenants, including numerous anime shops and vintage watch stores.

One of the most striking features of Nakano is the Nakano Sun Mall [map], a 224-meter-long covered shopping street. These roofed arcades are a staple throughout Japan, providing a comfortable space to shop while escaping the heat, cold, or rain. This particular example offers a diverse range of shops and adds to the area’s charm.

Surrounding the shopping arcades is a maze of narrow alleys, or yokocho, packed with small restaurants and izakayas (traditional Japanese bars). This vibrant network offers a fantastic variety of dining and drinking options, making Nakano a lively and atmospheric place to explore.

Nakano Sun Mall
Nakano Sun Mall
Higashinakano
Higashinakano
Nakano alley

Ginza: Tokyo's Luxury Shopping and Dining Destination

Ginza is Tokyo’s most renowned upscale shopping district, home to high-end boutiques, luxury department stores, and numerous fine-dining restaurants. Due to limited time, my visit to Ginza was brief and took place in the evening.

I ended up at one of the well-known 300 Bars, where everything on the menu costs just 300 yen. I enjoyed a few small glasses of Guinness, which felt like great value, along with some delicious tapas. The system is straightforward: you purchase tickets upon entry and use them to order food and drinks. While the atmosphere was lively and enjoyable, seating was minimal, which proved a bit challenging after a long day of walking around Tokyo. Despite this, the experience offered a fun and budget-friendly way to enjoy a slice of Ginza’s nightlife.

Tokyo Ginza
Ginza
Guinness at Ginza 300 bar

Sumida: A Blend of Tradition and Modernity in Tokyo

Situated across the river from Asakusa, Sumida is a pleasant area to explore, especially when the weather is agreeable. A notable landmark here is the Asahi Beer Hall, the headquarters of Asahi Breweries. Designed by renowned French architect Philippe Starck, the building is most famous for its golden flame, a striking and memorable feature. Sumida offers a glimpse into everyday life in Tokyo, providing a quieter, more residential atmosphere compared to the busier districts. Most streets are free of heavy pedestrian or vehicular traffic, making it an easy and enjoyable area to walk around.

While exploring, I noticed several places with the iconic Japanese queues, often signalling popular local spots. Another interesting feature of Sumida was the presence of compact, pop-up-style car parks called “coin parking”—an innovative solution to the challenge of parking in a dense urban environment. Some of these car parks had only a couple of spaces but were still equipped with payment machines, a testament to the efficiency and ingenuity common in Japanese cities.

Tokyo Sumida queue
Queue for bakery
Asahi Headquarters
Coin parking spot

Asakusa: Old Tokyo in a Sea of Tourists

Sensoji Temple

Asakusa is historically rich district in Tokyo, known for preserving an atmosphere that harks back to earlier decades of Japan’s past. It is a popular destination for both tourists and locals seeking to experience traditional Japanese culture amidst the modernity of Tokyo. At the heart of the district lies the iconic Sensoji Temple [map], Tokyo’s oldest and most significant Buddhist temple, which is surrounded by Nakamise Street, a bustling shopping avenue.

The Asakusa metro station, conveniently situated in the southern part of the district near the Sumida River, serves as a major gateway for visitors exploring the area. From this station, travelers can easily access key attractions, such as the Asakusa Shrine and the historic Asakusa Hanayashiki amusement park, which dates back to 1853. Additionally, the district is a hub for cultural activities, offering experiences like rickshaw rides, traditional tea ceremonies, and opportunities to dress in kimono.

The centrepiece of Asakusa is Sensoji Temple, a renowned Buddhist temple dating back to the 7th century and recognized as Tokyo’s oldest temple. While the temple itself is fascinating, the dense crowds can detract from the experience. During my time in Tokyo, I noticed that tourists—mostly domestic visitors from outside the city—tended to flock to a handful of popular sites while largely overlooking others. This allowed me to discover several tranquil temples where I could enjoy the peaceful atmosphere they are meant to provide.

Close to Sensoji, there are other notable shopping streets, such as Shin-Nakamise and Nakamise-dori, the latter being a covered arcade—a common feature in Japan. On rainy days during my visit, these covered streets offered a welcome refuge from the drizzle, adding to the charm of exploring the area.

Nakamise-dori
Sensoji Temple
Shop in Asakusa

Shop till you drop in Ueno

Ueno is a district in Tokyo’s Taitō ward, with much of the activity centred around Ueno Station, a key transit hub connecting northern Japan to the city. The nearby Okachimachi area is known for its extensive shopping options, particularly Ameyoko Shopping Street, a lively stretch with over 400 shops situated beneath the railway tracks.

The name “Ameyoko” is derived from “Ameya Yokocho” (candy store alley), reflecting its history as a place where candies were once widely sold. Another interpretation links “Ame” to “America,” as the area became a hub for American goods during the black market era following World War II and still contains some 50’s American themed stores. During my visit, the vibrant displays of fish and spice shops were especially striking, adding to the street’s bustling and colourful atmosphere.

Ameyoko market
Tokyo Ameyoko Tony Picon
Visiting Ameyoko
Kasuga-dori Avenue

Akihabara - the electronics centre of Tokyo

This neighbourhood, once renowned as a post-war black market, has transformed into a hub for electronic goods and a focal point of Japan’s otaku culture—encompassing manga, anime, and video games. It is also one of the key destinations for Japan’s unique maid cafes, where waitresses dressed in maid costumes serve patrons in a highly stylized and theatrical manner.

While maid cafes are distinctly Japanese, I understand this concept has gained some traction in places like Taiwan. However, I have yet to encounter it elsewhere in Southeast Asia, where more conservative cultures may find the idea a step too far—though cultural trends can be unpredictable. It’s worth noting that despite the playful and sometimes provocative presentation, these establishments do not offer sexual services. Instead, they lean into a more innocent form of titillation, a cultural parallel perhaps to some trends in the UK.

Maid cafes and their promotion are a visible part of urban Japan, with staff often seen in costume handing out leaflets to passersby. This is particularly noticeable in areas like Shinjuku, where such establishments are a notable draw for both locals and curious tourists alike.

maid Tokyo japan

Surrounding the Tokyo Imperial Palace

Yasukuni-jinja Shrine
Tokyo Yasukuni-jinja
Walkway from shrine
Yasukuni-jinja Shrine
Memorial to soldiers at Yasukuni

Shimokitazawa - the bohemian place for shopping & nightlife

This area is often referred to as Tokyo’s bohemian district, a place where creativity and individuality thrive. During my evening visit, it was a refreshing contrast to the busy, neon-lit streets of Shibuya and Shinjuku. The atmosphere here was far more laid-back, with fewer crowds, making it an ideal spot for a more relaxed exploration of the city.

In the afternoon, the area is great for shopping, particularly for those looking for something unique. The stores are generally small and niche, offering a wide range of retro items, vintage clothes, second-hand goods, and quirky trinkets you won’t easily find elsewhere. Whether you’re into Japanese pop culture memorabilia, antique treasures, or eclectic fashion pieces, there’s something for every taste.

As evening approaches, the neighborhood transforms. It becomes a lively hub filled with local bars, intimate cafes, and restaurants. The streets, once quiet, are now buzzing with energy as both locals and tourists gather to unwind. The combination of cozy, dimly lit spaces and the charm of the neighborhood creates an inviting and vibrant atmosphere, where you can easily spend hours hopping between bars, enjoying local delicacies, or simply soaking in the bohemian vibe.

Tokyo Shimokitazawa
Shimokitazawa

Takanawa - area of peaceful temples

Takanawa is a charming neighbourhood in Tokyo that is home to several temples worth exploring. As you walk through the area, you’ll encounter quaint alleyways that offer a peaceful contrast to the bustling metropolis, providing a glimpse into a more laid-back, village-like lifestyle.

One of the notable temples in the area is Sengakuji, located near Shinagawa Station. This small temple is historically significant as the burial site of the 47 Ronin, the samurai who famously avenged their master’s death in the early 18th century. Their graves have become a symbol of loyalty and honour in Japanese culture, and the temple attracts visitors who are interested in this legendary story.

Another temple worth visiting is Shōgen-ji, a lesser-known gem dating back to the 9th century. While not as famous as other temples, it offers a tranquil environment to reflect on its long history and cultural significance. Hoanji Temple, which should not be confused with the more famous temple of the same name in Kyoto, is home to a unique and poignant feature: its pet cemetery. The cemetery, which includes pictures of deceased animals, offers a glimpse into the deep sense of respect for animals in Japanese culture, with many people choosing to memorialize their beloved pets here.

Although I’m not particularly drawn to the religious aspects of Japan’s temples, nearly all of them, except the most tourist-heavy ones, provide a serene escape. It’s a calming experience to wander through these quiet spaces, reflecting the tranquillity of the area.

Tokyo Sengaku-ji
Sengaku-ji
Tokyo Hoanji Temple
Hoanji Temple
Hoanji Temple cemetery

What is it like staying in a Capsule hotel in Japan?

During my visit to Tokyo, I spent five nights in a capsule hotel, a uniquely Japanese concept that has since gained popularity in other countries. This stay was a nostalgic revisit to an experience I first had 30 years ago in Fukuoka. Capsule hotels are a budget-friendly option and cost significantly less than traditional hotel rooms, which was a big draw for me in Tokyo. Most of these establishments primarily cater to Japanese salarymen—those working late into the night or seeking a break from their usual routine. However, the one I chose was more foreigner-friendly and could be conveniently booked online.

The capsule itself was surprisingly comfortable. I’m not claustrophobic, so the compact space wasn’t an issue—I could sit up easily without feeling cramped. One notable difference from my previous stay was that capsules now have curtains instead of doors. While this adds a touch of openness, it also means noise travels far too easily. Even though the provided earplugs helped, the sound of late arrivals trickling in during the wee hours made it difficult to get a proper night’s sleep, which was especially challenging given my packed daily schedule. Another downside was the size of the lockers. They’re designed for single-night visitors and are extremely small, which made storing even my modest luggage quite tricky.

Positives staying in capsule in Tokyo

On the plus side, I thoroughly enjoyed the steam room and sauna facilities—perfect for unwinding after a long day of exploration. These amenities were available nearly 24 hours, so I indulged often. The capsule hotel also had an on-site restaurant, which I only used on my first evening. These hotels are typically situated in convenient locations near mass transit hubs, making them an ideal choice for travellers looking to explore Tokyo efficiently, as I did. The setup also encourages a quick routine—up, showered, and out in about 20 minutes—perfect for maximizing time in a bustling city.

Overall, it was a fascinating and worthwhile experience, but five nights was perhaps too long for me. By the time I reached Osaka and checked into a traditional hotel, I felt a newfound appreciation for a bit more space and privacy. For anyone considering a capsule hotel, I’d recommend it for two or three nights to enjoy the novelty.

Tokyo capsule hotel
Lower bunk for me
Bed for the night

Riding the Shinkansen (bullet train)

One of the top items on my travel bucket list was to ride Japan’s iconic Shinkansen high-speed train from Tokyo to Osaka. First introduced in 1964 to coincide with the Tokyo Olympics, the Shinkansen revolutionized train travel and has since become a symbol of modern Japan. While other high-speed trains have been developed up around the world and lessened its uniqueness, the original Shinkansen still carries a certain prestige as the pioneer of bullet trains. It’s also incredibly efficient, with services to Osaka running every few minutes, and I was fortunate enough to book a seat on the fastest Nozomi express, which reaches speeds of around 300 km/h.

At Tokyo Station, I fully embraced the experience, picking up a bento box lunch to enjoy on the train and splurging on a First Class (Green Car) ticket. The Green Car offers a more spacious seating arrangement, but I was surprised to find that it was a row of four seats rather than something more luxurious. The journey itself was incredibly smooth, but I’ll admit it felt a little anticlimactic. Despite the hype, the train ride didn’t quite live up to my high expectations. Sadly, the weather was so cloudy and overcast that I missed the opportunity to see Mount Fuji from the right side of the train, even though I had booked the window with that view in mind.

How to Book a Shinkansen Ticket

If you’re planning to travel by Shinkansen a few weeks in advance, I recommend booking your tickets online through the official website. This often comes with generous discounts for early bookings, and you can reserve your seat in advance, especially important during busy travel periods. Once you’ve made your booking, you’ll receive a QR code after payment. This code can be used at ticket machines in major stations to collect your two tickets: one for the journey itself, and another for the surcharge to use the Shinkansen. The process can be a bit confusing, as the ticket barriers only accept the surcharge ticket, but once you’re through, you’ll be on your way to experiencing one of the world’s most famous train rides.

What is a Doctor Yellow shinkansen?

While waiting for the train to depart, I noticed a crowd gathered on a nearby platform, cameras poised and brimming with anticipation. Intrigued, I soon discovered the reason: the arrival of a yellow Shinkansen train, known as “Doctor Yellow.” These rare diagnostic trains are equipped with specialized equipment to monitor the condition of tracks and overhead wires. They operate only about three times a month, with no publicly announced schedule, making their appearance a matter of pure chance. Spotting Doctor Yellow is considered a stroke of good fortune, with many believing it brings happiness or good luck to those lucky enough to witness it.

Ready for my ride
Doctor yellow Bullet train Shinkansen
Doctor Yellow
Shinkansen bullet train
Inside Shinkansen
Tokyo Bullet train Bento Box
Bento Box for lunch

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