KAMPONG CHHNANG, CAMBODIA
Kampong Chhnang: Where Water Shapes Cambodian Life
Understanding the Unique Rhythms of Cambodian Life, Shaped by Centuries of Tradition and the Changing Seasons
Most travellers to Cambodia typically visit the capital, Phnom Penh, or Siem Reap, which is home to the famous Angkor Wat temple complex. For many years, Sihanoukville was a peaceful coastal getaway, but recent Chinese investments have turned it into a bustling casino town, often marked by harsh architectural styles that have altered its charm. To experience a more relaxed pace of Cambodian life, consider spending a night or two in one of the smaller towns scattered throughout the country. Kampong Chhnang is a great example, located just about 90 minutes by bus from Phnom Penh. This town is shaped by the rhythms of the Tonle Sap River, which changes dramatically between the dry and wet seasons. I first visited Kampong Chhnang around 18 years ago, and in late 2024, I decided to return and see how much it had changed.
Kampong Chhnang : Port of Pottery
Kampong Chhnang has been a vital port in Cambodia since ancient times, known for its significant production of pottery, stoves, pots, and pans. The name Kampong Chhnang comes from two Khmer words: “Kampong,” meaning “port” or “harbour,” and “Chhnang,” meaning “pottery.” The economy of the province shares its name, primarily revolves around rice farming, fishing, and traditional crafts, particularly pottery. While there is some modern industrial activity, it is much less prevalent compared to Phnom Penh province.
Until recently, many people living along the Tonle Sap River were part of floating fishing villages, especially during the high-water monsoon season. However, the last of these villages was taken apart at the end of 2022. The effort to relocate began in 2015 when local authorities started a seven-year initiative to move families from the river to land-based communities. By the end of the project in 2022, around 2,000 families had been moved. Most of these communities were made up of Vietnamese and Cham people. While the floating villages represented a traditional lifestyle, they had a considerable negative effect on the river’s natural environment. The biodiversity of the Tonle Sap River declined, and pollution became a serious concern, as the river was used both as a water source and a waste depository for the villagers
The town features the typical traditional markets that can get quite bustling at times. There are several monuments, including a replica of the Independence Monument. You can easily stroll around the centre in about an hour, soaking in the atmosphere of a Cambodian market town. A nice walk is to the riverbank, which takes around 45 minutes on foot or a short motorbike ride. Close by is Yeay Tep Pagoda, which is welcoming to foreigners due to the small number of visitors.
The Rhythm of Life by the Tonle Sap
I visited the river area at the beginning of the dry season, when it was still possible to ford parts of the river to get around. By early in the year, this area is typically completely dry, but the scene changes dramatically during the rainy season, when the Tonle Sap rises. A clear indicator of the seasonal flooding across the country is the architecture: buildings in flood-prone areas are constructed on stilts, with the ground floor often used as a temporary garage or storage space during the dry season. Along the riverbank, these elevated structures are especially prominent.
Walking along the river was a truly pleasant experience. The views and the daily rhythms of village life were captivating. Although the river dwellings have been dismantled, which may reduce some of the sights for tourists, the overall atmosphere remains worth experiencing. The locals were generally unobtrusive, except for one woman who offered me a boat tour—though it was already too late in the day for that.
On my way back to town, I took an alternative side road where I was warmly greeted by children calling out cheerful “hellos,” adding a delightful personal touch to the journey.
Lifestyle in Kampong Chhnang
According to the 2019 census, the province had a population of 527,027, an increase from 472,341 in 2008. The city itself recorded a population of 41,080 in 2019. While the rapid growth of Phnom Penh is gradually encroaching on the southernmost part of the province, the new train line linking the capital to Battambang and beyond does not pass through Kampong Chhnang. The town currently has five hotels, although guest ratings vary widely. I stayed at The Garden Guest House, which had the highest rating by far. It offered a pleasant and affordable stay in a fan-cooled room. However, there are no high-end hotels in the area.
During a previous visit to the city, I felt like the only foreigner around. However, with Cambodia’s growing tourism industry, more visitors are venturing beyond the country’s well-known destinations in search of unique experiences. On this visit, I noticed a small but increasing presence of tourists. A few had checked into the same hotel as me, and I saw two foreign couples dining at a nearby restaurant. At the local 7-Eleven, I even spotted what appeared to be an expat stocking up on supplies. As in many such places, there are likely more expatriates and visitors blending into the local scene than meets the eye.
Surviving an evening in Kampong Chhnang
In smaller towns like Kampong Chhnang, the daytime atmosphere can be captivating, but evenings bring a different challenge. People in agriculturally based communities generally live according to the rhythm of sunrise to sunset. Even those living in town tend to follow this routine, with early mornings and early nights. As a result, nightlife is limited, and Kampong Chhnang is no exception.
During my visit about 18 years ago, the town had just one run-down hotel and a single restaurant that closed around 7 p.m. I recall hiring a motorbike taxi rider who took me around for half a day. In the end, he invited me to his home, where he, his wife, and young child lived in a small shack, powered by a car battery that ran a dim light and a tiny black-and-white TV for a few hours in the evening.
Today, life in Kampong Chhnang seems to have improved, though poverty remains widespread. The town feels livelier, with a few restaurants catering to foreign visitors, offering menus that are roughly translated. The entertainment, however, still comes from the most unexpected sources—like a cat meowing in the background.
You can still get an iced latte
There are a few coffee shops open during the day, including the ever-present Thai outlet Café Amazon, where you can enjoy an iced latte in the air-conditioning during the day or early evening. Additionally, a Seven Eleven provides a comfortable spot to relax and watch the local world go by in the cooler evenings. While some supermarkets are available, they are located further outside the town. There are also a few local bars scattered around, but they would likely be more welcoming if you had a Cambodian friend with you. Overall, there are just enough places to make the evenings tolerable, but these towns are best appreciated during the day.
If you’re visiting Cambodia for an extended period, I recommend spending at least a few days away from the popular tourist hotspots. While these destinations are fun, they don’t offer a full picture of Cambodian life. The rest of Cambodia moves to its own unique rhythm, shaped by the seasons and a way of life that has endured for millennia.
