BALYKCHY, KYRGYZSTAN
Balykchy: Where the past is still present
A graphic example of a town still struggling to move on from its past - over 35 years ago
Balykchy, a small town on the western tip of Issyk-Kul Lake in Kyrgyzstan, serves as a common starting point for travellers journeying from Almaty or Bishkek to the lake. Located 175 km southwest of Bishkek, it sits at an elevation of approximately 1,900 meters. Historically known as Rybachye (Russian for “fisherman”), the town’s Kyrgyz name carries the same meaning, reflecting its origins as a fishing hub.
Once a key centre for the lake’s fishing fleet, agro-industrial activities, and logistics, Balykchy’s economy and infrastructure have declined significantly since the collapse of the Soviet Union. Today, the town is home to around 50,000 people, with about 90% identifying as Kyrgyz and 7% as Russian.
During my two-day visit, I found Balykchy still searching for a new identity. One of its few modern attractions is its role as the terminus for the scenic train route from Bishkek—a modest claim to fame for a town with a rich but fading past.
Lenin's legacy
A major industrial and transport centre during the Soviet era with a focus on the wool and food processing, especially grain. However, following the collapse of the Soviet Union, the town lost much of its economic base, with the closure of nearly all its industrial and logistics facilities. Like many industrial cities in Central Asia, Soviet nostalgia lives on, with much of its former glory tied to that period. Lenin’s portrait remains well preserved on one derelict factory I visited.
Unlike more developed cities where former industrial areas like docks have been converted to thriving new neighbourhoods, much of Balykchy’s port area remains a state of decay with no clear path for revitalization. The town’s population has largely stagnated in recent decades, reflecting the broader challenges faced by many post-Soviet industrial centres.
Balykchy: A town in search of a new identity
Balykchy presents a unique blend of rustbelt grit and rustic simplicity. The town centre is a hardscrabble patchwork of modest markets focused on metalwork, machinery, and other small-scale trades, reflecting its industrial past. This starkly contrasts with the vast grazing lands and open spaces that surround Issyk-Kul Lake, offering a glimpse into the region’s pastoral heritage.
Unlike the more cosmopolitan capital of Bishkek, Balykchy offers few comforts for the modern traveller. During my visit, finding a decent cup of coffee was a challenge—there was only one place that served lattes, and ice was a rarity, available only on one of my two attempts. The absence of a developed café culture is striking, especially when compared to places like Vietnam or Morocco, where even small towns offer inviting cafés as a respite from wandering the streets.
Accommodation in Balykchy is primarily limited to homestays, which typically include a basic breakfast. Dining options are concentrated near the market, but they tend to be utilitarian rather than inviting. For travellers accustomed to more vibrant food scenes, the local eateries may feel underwhelming. Despite this, Balykchy offers a glimpse into a slower, less polished side of Central Asia—a town still navigating the transition from its Soviet industrial roots to an uncertain future.
The limping economy
Balykchy’s name, derived from the word for “fishing,” reflects its early economic foundation as the main port for fishermen on Issyk-Kul Lake. In the early 20th century, the town thrived as a hub for the fishing industry, but overfishing during the Soviet era, combined with the introduction of non-native species, disrupted the lake’s ecological balance. Local demand keeps the industry just about afloat. Today, vendors line the main road selling smoked fish from the lake, a popular product consumed by residents and passing visitors. However, even some of this fish is known to be imported from China.
The unique climate of the region, shaped by the never-freezing lake and the surrounding high mountains, has made the area ideal for horticulture. The Issyk-Kul region’s fresh fruits, particularly apples and apricots, are renowned for their distinctive taste, thanks to the region’s climate. Each year, around 30,000 tonnes of apples and 10,000 tonnes of apricots are produced and sold. Given Balykchy’s renowned high winds the region also holds potential for renewable energy, particularly wind power, with vast open land and favourable conditions, though development has been slow.
Industrial activity in Balykchy has seen some modest growth in recent years. The town’s industrial output rose from nearly USD2.5 million in 2014 to USD3.3 million in 2018. However, much of its former industrial base, such as its grain processing and storage and wool industry, has languished. The town’s imperious grain silos operate at limited capacity or not at all, and the wool industry has been decimated due to competition from abroad. Although ship repair continues, it is a shadow of its former self, as the decline in fishing and marine activities has led to the diminishing need for such services.
Balykchy does hold potential as a logistics hub, thanks to its strategic location along the highway connecting Bishkek to Torugart which borders China. The town hosts several oil depots, food and coal warehouses, and large electrical substations, making it an important link in regional trade. However, despite these advantages, the town’s development is hampered by a lack of investment, leaving it in a state of limbo, far from realizing its full potential. Balykchy continues to exist as a fading remnant of its once-vibrant industrial past, struggling to define its place in the future.
After gaining independence, the tourism industry around Issyk-Kul struggled, but in recent years, visitors have started to return, particularly from other parts of Kyrgyzstan, Russia, and landlocked Kazakhstan. However, most travelers bypass Balykchy in favor of more popular destinations like Cholpon-Ata on the northern shore or the area near Bokonbayevo to the south. Many tourists do stop in Balykchy, often arriving by the scenic train from Bishkek, but then quickly head out by bus to more attractive locations around the lake.
The weather in Balykchy is moderate, with summer temperatures around 20°C due to its altitude, making it pleasant for outdoor activities but less so for relaxing on a beach. The water is just about warm enough for swimming, but strong winds can sometimes hamper beach activities. The town has two small beaches, but these are limited in terms of facilities, and there are no hotels nearby. Instead, locals with picnic setups and deck chairs dominate the beaches.
Balykchy’s long, cold winters further limit its appeal as a year-round destination. While the town is a useful base for hiking and cycling around the lake and the nearby mountains, its tourism infrastructure is very underdeveloped, with only a few homestay-type guesthouses available. As a result, many visitors prefer to use the more developed town of Karakol on the eastern side of the lake as their base. Balykchy remains stuck in a “chicken and egg” situation, where its lack of infrastructure deters visitors, while its tourism infrastructure remains limited due to the lack of demand.
Balykchy’s container fueled real estate market
Balykchy’s real estate market is largely characterized by Soviet-era apartment buildings, which are prevalent throughout the town as well as houses and villas of varying quality. These apartments, often with scenic mountain backdrops, are generally priced at around 500 USD per square meter but many are in a state of disrepair.
Around Balykchy, shipping containers have become a common sight, repurposed for various uses, particularly retail. In 2018, there were 6,662 inbound containers and 290 outbound, a significant reduction from the 22,637 inbound containers recorded in 2014. This decline was mainly due to stricter import regulations following Kyrgyzstan’s accession to the Eurasian Economic Union. The imbalance in container traffic is a common issue in economies that export raw materials, which typically don’t require containers, while importing consumer goods that do.
Novi Bazaar in Balykchy is a prime example of this trend, with its small shops largely made from converted shipping containers. These containers are also commonly used for storage by small businesses throughout the town. Despite this, there are a couple of supermarkets offering a limited selection of goods, but the overall retail infrastructure remains underdeveloped.
Land prices in Balykchy are notably low, reflecting the town’s limited prospects for development. Plots near the town centre can be found for as little as two US dollars per square meter, with prices dropping even further in more remote areas. This affordability mirrors the town’s broader economic challenges, where opportunities for investment and growth remain scarce.
Getting there is part (or most) of the fun
A scenic tourist train is one of the best ways to travel to Balykchy from Bishkek, especially during the summer high season when it operates. This train service is one of the few features that helps put Balykchy on the map for many visitors. The journey takes about four hours, with large windows offering passengers a comfortable and enjoyable sightseeing experience.
There are several classes available, including a luxurious VIP/Salon carriage, but I travelled in the more affordable Lux class, which was perfectly adequate. The Lux class also gave me the chance to interact with the very friendly local travellers. A Lux ticket costs around five dollars. The train departs for Balykchy in the morning and returns in the early evening. You can check the schedule and book tickets online at the Kyrgyzstan Railways website, though be aware that schedules may change.
In addition to the tourist train, other public transport options to explore Issyk-Kul include infrequent bus services and more frequent shared taxis. Although these shared taxis can be cramped, most of the trips are relatively short, often taking only an hour or two, so your legs may not be too numb at the end of the trip.
While Balykchy might not be for everyone, and many visitors may prefer to head to more tourist-friendly towns around Issyk-Kul, those interested in the Soviet legacy will find the town offers a stark, almost cold-hearted glimpse into what life was like during that era and how it has evolved since. Balykchy is a town that continues to struggle with its identity, trying to find its place in a rapidly changing region and world.
