talk2tony, Author at City Travel Go

Saranda

talk2tony / December 14, 2024

SARANDA, ALBANIA Saranda: Emerging as new coastal hotspot. Want to experience the charm of Saranda? This coastal town blends stunning landscapes with a rich past, attracting visitors from across the Mediterranean. The town of Saranda (in Albanian: Sarandë) is a prominent resort destination along the Albanian Riviera, situated just 14 kilometers from the Greek island of Corfu. It lies on an open sea gulf of the Ionian Sea, part of the Mediterranean. During the communist era, Saranda was primarily a quiet fishing village, with a few summer homes for officials. However, since the country opened up, particularly in the 2000s, the town has experienced significant growth, albeit with some fluctuations in the real estate market. Today, not only Albanians visit the coast, but also Greeks, residents from landlocked Macedonia and Kosovo, as well as Italians. If you’re seeking a peaceful getaway, you might be disappointed, especially in the summer when the population swells from 30,000 to over 300,000. Over the past decade, the town has seen a significant increase in tourism, fast catching up with popular resorts in Greece, Croatia, and Montenegro. During peak season, it transforms into a lively party town, attracting both young people and families. Fortunately, I visited in June, just before the tourist rush, which meant it was relatively quiet, yet warm enough for a refreshing swim in the sea. The town also provides opportunities to explore the charming beach town of Ksamil and the UNESCO World Heritage site of Butrint, both easily reachable by public bus from the center of Saranda. Additionally, the coastal area is surrounded by hills, and if you’re up for it, you can escape the crowds and enjoy stunning views of the town below. Resorts in Saranda Apartments in Saranda The town and its beaches The town is small and easy to explore, featuring a coastal road that hosts most of the activity, along with other roads that lead further inland and uphill. Much of the coastline consists of private beaches belonging to hotels and restaurants, where visitors pay a fee to use deck chairs. The public beaches, located in the town center, are quite rocky, but once you navigate past the stones, the sea is inviting. It gets deep quickly, so be cautious if you’re not a strong swimmer. In the summer, they add sand to the beach, which can create a bit of a mess. The ideal times to visit are late spring and early autumn when the weather remains warm, but the crowds have thinned out. The promenade comes alive in the evenings, with people of all ages enjoying leisurely strolls along the beachfront while indulging in ice creams. You’ll find the usual budget-friendly kebab shops alongside pricier fish restaurants, as well as several nightclubs further down the coast. The town offers a wide range of hotels and apartments to fit various budgets, with the pricier options typically providing private beach access. The more affordable accommodations are usually located a bit inland but are still just a short walk from the beach. Town centre Overlooking town stadium Real estate options in Saranda I spent a week in a somewhat dilapidated apartment building, but the unit itself was quite comfortable, featuring a spacious balcony with stunning views. Most of the older buildings lack elevators, but they typically have only four stories. In the past decade, more upscale residential developments have emerged alongside older apartments from the communist era, many of which were poorly constructed after the regime’s fall in 1991. Compared to other Mediterranean countries like Croatia and Greece, property prices here are much more reasonable, with premium rates ranging from 2,000 to 3,000 Euros per square meter. Additionally, an airport is being constructed in Saranda, which will allow visitors to bypass Tirana, and Albania is a candidate for EU membership, suggesting that property prices may rise even further. A notable advantage of owning property in Albania is that foreigners can obtain a residence permit through property purchase, as stated in Article 84 of the Foreigners Act No. 79/2021. Currently, there is no minimum purchase requirement, but ownership must exceed 50%. Citizens from visa-exempt countries can enter Albania with a valid passport and stay for up to 90 days within a 180-day period, making it an accessible option for a second home. Modern apartment Older apartment Living in Saranda You can find a variety of small supermarkets throughout the town, though their selection is somewhat limited. However, they do offer an interesting assortment of Greek products that might not be available in Tirana due to the closer proximity. One of the better choices is Supermarket Alfa on Rruga Abedin Dino, which is likely the largest in the area. The town lacks shopping malls of any size, which could be seen as either a blessing or a curse, depending on your perspective. There are plenty of good food options at reasonable prices just a short walk from the coast. You can often find affordable snacks like the popular burek, a savory pastry with many different fillings. Additionally, there are many cozy coffee shops where you can relax. Ksamil Ksamil panorama About 13 kilometers from Saranda lies the smaller and supposedly more exclusive resort town of Ksamil. This area features a variety of small coves and bays that host private beaches. While the town may have once catered to a more luxurious clientele, a rapid construction boom over the past decade has transformed Ksamil into a smaller version of its larger neighbor. The bays are indeed more picturesque, but they are now packed to the rafters with sunseekers in deck chairs. It’s worth taking a half-day trip using the local bus, as there are plenty of dining and drinking options available. You can also explore some walking paths that lead to more secluded parts of the town, particularly a charming area by an inlet. If you take the local bus to Butrint, you can easily combine both destinations in a single day trip, although it can be quite exhausting during

Turkey

Istanbul Metrobus

talk2tony / December 11, 2024

ISTANBUL, TURKEY (TÜRKIYE) Istanbul Metrobus: The hidden gem of Istanbul’s glittering public transport system Tourists might overlook it, but the Istanbul Metrobus serves as an excellent model for developing a bus rapid transit system. Metrobus station Istanbul is the capital and the main commercial hub of Turkey (officially known as Türkiye). It’s one of the most captivating cities I’ve ever explored. Beyond the food, culture, and weather, the public transport offers a delightful array of options. You can find trams (including a charming nostalgic one), both old and new funicular railways, metro systems (with both manned and driverless trains), buses, numerous ferries, and even a short cable car. There’s also a transit system that might not be on the radar for most visitors, but it’s an interesting example of a concept that often gets a bad rap worldwide: the bus rapid transit (BRT) system. Metrobus Station Metrobus interior Marmara Park mall A genuine bus rapid transit system A BRT system includes dedicated roadways for buses, allowing them to have priority at intersections where they might face other traffic. It also features design elements that reduce delays caused by passengers boarding or alighting, as well as by fare payments. The aim of BRT is to combine the capacity and speed of mass rapid transit systems like metros with the cost-effectiveness and lower capital investment of a traditional bus system. Many promote their systems as BRT, but they often lack the essential features that define a genuine BRT line. The Metrobus in Istanbul ticks all the boxes for a true and successful BRT system. How to Navigate the Istanbul Metrobus System The line stretches for 52 km and includes 44 stations. It was inaugurated in 2007 and saw several extensions until 2012. The entire Metrobus system operates on a dedicated transitway located in the center of a freeway, ensuring a right-of-way, except for the mixed traffic on the Bosporus Bridge, which links Europe and Asia. Like all public transport in Istanbul, it features a pre-payment system with turnstiles, meaning there is a distinct station for each stop. The system utilizes the Istanbulkart smart payment card, which is valid for all public transport in the city. What impressed me the most was the frequency of the buses, which seemed to arrive every minute, making it easy to catch the next one if the current bus is full. The articulated buses operate 24/7, although they run less frequently during the night. The bus on the Asian side starts its journey from Söğütlüçeşme, which serves as the terminal for the Ankara–Istanbul high-speed railway. As it travels, the bus connects to the city’s central business district (CBD), particularly at Zorlu Center, a noteworthy mixed-use development located at Zincirlikuyu station. The route heads west but avoids the main tourist hotspots of Eminönü and Sultanahmet, making it less visible to most tourists. If you’re only in the city for a few days to see the main sights, it’s probably best to skip this transport option. However, if you have more time and want to discover a more authentic side of Istanbul, the bus system offers a great perspective. Zorlu Center Zorlu Center Istanbul Metrobus: Highlights of the trip While it may not be the most convenient option for tourists, the Metrobus is quite effective for Istanbul residents. It connects the Asian side of the city to the central business district and various densely populated neighbourhoods in the west, with links to other transport options along the way. I took the bus all the way to the western terminus, which involved about an 85-minute ride. The end of the line wasn’t particularly exciting although did have a nice view, but I did get off a few times on my way back. Two highlights were the Marmara Park shopping centre, a large and impressive mall, and a bit further along was Menekse Beach Park, a lovely spot that families enjoy during the cooler summer evenings—perfect for a stroll to experience life beyond the tourist hotspots. Most buses were fairly busy, even during off-peak times, but they weren’t overcrowded, and passengers frequently hopped on and off, so seats would open up. It would be a missed opportunity not to experience the ferries or ride the trams that navigate through the tourist hotspots. However, if you have a few extra days and want to explore a different side of this amazing city, consider taking a unique and authentic bus ride from Asia to Europe, venturing into parts of Istanbul that are rarely seen by tourists. Menekse Beach Park Menekse Beach Park Beylikdüzü terminal station Mamara Park mall View from Beylikdüzü terminal station

Morocco

Chefchaouen

talk2tony / December 8, 2024

CHEFCHAOUEN, MOROCCO Time for the blues in Chefchaouen A small town in Morocco offers a unique and literally colourful visitor experience. Chefchaouen, nestled in the mountainous region of northwest Morocco, is known as the ‘Blue City’ for good reason. Much of the town is painted in various shades of blue, a choice influenced by its recent history rather than ancient traditions. Founded in 1471 as a small kasbah to protect against Portuguese invasions, it later became a refuge for various groups escaping turmoil in Spain, thriving both financially and culturally. Although it was eventually conquered by Spain, Chefchaouen became part of independent Morocco in 1956. Today, the town is situated in the province that shares its name. Historical centre near kasbah (fort) Why is Chefchaouen blue? The reason behind Chefchaouen’s blue hue isn’t definitively known, but there are several plausible theories. It’s likely a combination of factors that led to the town’s gradual transformation into a blue expanse rather than a sudden change. One of the most widely accepted theories suggests that before World War II, the rapidly growing Jewish community, seeking refuge from Nazi persecution, began painting their homes blue as a religious practice. This colour symbolizes the sky, creating a connection to heaven and their deity. Over time, more residents embraced this tradition, and it eventually became advantageous to paint the entire old city blue to attract tourists. The historical district, particularly the medina, showcases the most vibrant blue, while the modern parts of town also feature the colour, albeit to a lesser degree. In the spring, just before the tourist season kicks off, many homes in the centre are repainted. It’s nearly impossible to take a bad photo here, and the entire town—along with its many cats—seems perfectly curated for Instagram! Balancing Tourism and Tradition in a Historic Walled Town The city features a Medina, the historical walled town that serves as the main attraction for tourists, alongside a newer area that has developed outside the old city walls. The municipality has a population of approximately 43,000. Agriculture plays a significant role in the economy of the Chefchaouen province, which is particularly known for its extensive pastoral activities, with olives being the primary crop. Tourism is mainly seasonal, and in addition to its famous blue buildings, the area is also known as a cannabis haven, as the plant is cultivated throughout the nearby mountains. There are about 200 hotels in the town, though many are small homestays with a limited number of rooms. Like much of Morocco, a popular type of accommodation is the riad, which is a traditional Moroccan house or palace featuring an indoor garden and courtyard, often used as a restaurant. The hotels offer a very personalized experience, with no international brands available. One of the most luxurious options is the Taj Chefchaouen Luxury Hotel and Spa, although it is not affiliated with the Taj brand. The town sits 600 meters up the foothills of the Rif Mountains, where the summer evenings bring a slight coolness. It’s definitely worth spending a couple of days here, not just to explore the tourism-focused medina but also to wander through the steep streets that offer stunning panoramic views of the town and the surrounding mountains. You’ll find plenty of restaurants aimed at tourists, and even the medina has some decent dining options, though prices can be high, so it’s wise to compare for better deals. There are also many typical Moroccan coffee shops where you can relax and break up a long day of walking. Examining the Real Estate Market and Accessibility in Chefchaouen There are apartments and individual homes for sale both in the town centre and on the outskirts, with regulations for foreigners purchasing residential property being quite relaxed. Prices vary from approximately 500 euros per square meter to about 1,500 euros per square meter, depending on the location and quality of the property. This presents a great opportunity for a vacation home, especially since winters here are milder than in much of Europe. Additionally, owning property could assist in obtaining Moroccan residency. Reaching Chefchaouen is quite straightforward by bus, even though there are no train connections. Most likely, like I did, you’ll arrive from Tangier and then head to Fes or vice versa. The journey from Tangier takes about two hours, but you might need to change buses in Tetouan, which can add another 30 minutes to your trip. Fes is around four to five hours away if you take a direct bus. I travelled with CTM buses for my trips around Morocco and found them to be reliable and reasonably priced. Their website can be found here , but it can be a bit frustrating since it’s only available in French. Keep in mind that the bus station is located in the lower part of the city, while most accommodations are situated higher up, so it’s best to take a taxi or, if you have limited luggage, walk up the steep roads like I did. Getting around town is easy, although be prepared for some steep walks. Click here for my visit to Astana the amazing capital of Kazakhstan

Uzbekistan

Tashkent

talk2tony / December 6, 2024

TASHKENT, UZBEKISTAN Tashkent: Burst of modernity reshaping the city from its Soviet legacy Reform to Uzbekistan’s economy from 2017 has started to make an impact on the country’s capital and main commercial centre Tashkent, also referred to as Toshkent, serves as the capital and the largest city of Uzbekistan. As of 2024, it stands as the most populous city in Central Asia, housing over three million residents. Tashkent city itself is considered a region of Uzbekistan although is mostly surrounded, confusingly, by Tashkent region. The city has faced significant destruction, first at the hands of Genghis Khan in 1219 and later due to natural disasters. A substantial portion of Tashkent was devastated during the 1966 earthquake, but it was subsequently reconstructed as a quintessential Soviet city. The remnants of this Soviet heritage have persisted, as the nation has approached economic reform with caution, prioritizing stability and limiting foreign investment in real estate, which has left Tashkent somewhat stagnant. However, the introduction of new reforms in 2016 has revitalized the economy, attracting both domestic and international investors, as well as boosting tourism. This resurgence is now evident in the emergence of modern international-grade offices, residential complexes, hotels, and shopping centres throughout the city. Destruction and revitalisation I travelled to Tashkent in September 2024, marking my initial destination in Uzbekistan after crossing the border from Shymkent in Kazakhstan. The city is approximately a 45-minute bus journey from the bustling border area. Due to a significant earthquake, there are few tourist attractions from the Silk Road era, with most sites originating from the Soviet period. Although the earthquake registered a magnitude of 5.2, its epicentre was in the heart of the city, resulting in extensive destruction and irreparable damage to numerous buildings. A comprehensive reconstruction effort ensued, transforming Tashkent into a prominent example of the Soviet system, as it was the fourth largest city in the Soviet Union. For visitors, the most notable attraction is not a single edifice but rather the intricate network of underground structures that form the metro system. Tashkent’s metro marvel Kosmonavtlar station The metro system, initially constructed in Central Asia and currently one of only two in the region (the other being in Almaty), commenced construction on its first line in 1972 and officially opened on November 6, 1977, featuring nine stations. It has since expanded to include 50 stations following the introduction of the Circle Line, which operates above ground. The tunnels of the metro vary in depth from 8 to 25 meters, resulting in relatively short stairways leading from the entrances to the concourse. Originally designed to serve as a bomb shelter in the event of a nuclear attack, the metro’s military significance led to a ban on photography until as late as 2018. Each station showcases unique artworks and is themed accordingly. The metro has evolved into a notable tourist attraction, often frequented by package tourists guided by he ubiquitous flag. Among the many stations I visited, Kosmonavtlar station stands out, honouring Soviet cosmonauts from the 1960s and 1970s. In the city centre, the stations and trains can become quite crowded, making them best avoided during peak hours. An unexpected influx of a large tour groups onto a train can create a stir. Ticket prices are very affordable, and passengers can use a credit or debit card chip; for frequent travellers, acquiring a stored value ATTO card is recommended which can also be used on many other transport systems in the country. There is also an ATTO app, but it is useless for most of Uzbekistan urban transport. Cash payments for individual tokens are also accepted, with a fixed fare structure in place. Alisher Navoiy station Buyuk Ipak Yuli station Tashkent station Kosmonavtlar station Tashkent’s Soviet legacy The Sirk Other intriguing structures from the Soviet era can be found alongside the expansive boulevards and charming parks. One particularly striking building is the Uzbekistan Hotel, whose brutalist architecture immediately suggests it was a luxury hotel during the communist era, likely serving as a gathering spot for visiting officials, diplomats, and perhaps even a few spies! The interior, however, is less grand, featuring a somewhat outdated reception area and a more modern, albeit gaudy, coffee shop. Another notable yet gradually declining attraction is the Sirk (state circus). Once a popular entertainment option in English seaside towns and the Soviet Union, it has lost much of its former appeal, serving as a prime example of this decline. While entry is not permitted and events may still occur occasionally, the focus has shifted to illuminating the building at night. This site is located near the Chorsu Bazaar, which resembles markets worldwide by selling Chinese-made goods, with a circular structure reminiscent of the circus at its centre. Overall, the market is bustling but lacks character, making it worth a brief visit since it’s nearby. Also in the vicinity is a poorly executed redevelopment of the old city, showcasing some of the worst examples of pastiche I’ve seen. A fascinating residential building known as the Zhemchug (pearl) features architecture inspired by the Central Asian makhalla (community) concept, with homes arranged around a communal courtyard. The apartments are organized around three-story suspended courtyards, allowing residents to embrace a collective lifestyle within extended family units. A must-see is the Tashkent TV Tower, built in 1985, which offers stunning views of the city and its surroundings, along with a quirky collection of cassette tape recorders. Uzbekistan Hotel Zhumchug Tashkent Hamid Olimjon square The Rise of Tourism in Uzbekistan Uzbekistan, once a challenging travel destination due to strict visa regulations and its remote location, is gradually becoming more accessible. The country began to open up at the end of the last decade, particularly after the passing of long-time leader Islam Karimov in 2016, which has spurred an increase in tourist interest, although the Covid pandemic has significantly impacted this growth. Chart – Visitors to Uzbekistan Source: Uzbekistan Statistics Agency Tashkent TV Tower Most travellers will at least stop in Tashkent, spending a day or

Kyrgyzstan

Balykchy

talk2tony / November 28, 2024

BALYKCHY, KYRGYZSTAN Balykchy: Where the past is still present A graphic example of a town still struggling to move on from its past – over 35 years ago Plyazh Aliya, Balykchy Balykchy, a small town on the western tip of Issyk-Kul Lake in Kyrgyzstan, serves as a common starting point for travellers journeying from Almaty or Bishkek to the lake. Located 175 km southwest of Bishkek, it sits at an elevation of approximately 1,900 meters. Historically known as Rybachye (Russian for “fisherman”), the town’s Kyrgyz name carries the same meaning, reflecting its origins as a fishing hub. Once a key centre for the lake’s fishing fleet, agro-industrial activities, and logistics, Balykchy’s economy and infrastructure have declined significantly since the collapse of the Soviet Union. Today, the town is home to around 50,000 people, with about 90% identifying as Kyrgyz and 7% as Russian. During my two-day visit, I found Balykchy still searching for a new identity. One of its few modern attractions is its role as the terminus for the scenic train route from Bishkek—a modest claim to fame for a town with a rich but fading past. Lenin lives on in abandoned factory Lenin’s legacy A major industrial and transport centre during the Soviet era with a focus on the wool and food processing, especially grain. However, following the collapse of the Soviet Union, the town lost much of its economic base, with the closure of nearly all its industrial and logistics facilities. Like many industrial cities in Central Asia, Soviet nostalgia lives on, with much of its former glory tied to that period. Lenin’s portrait remains well preserved on one derelict factory I visited. Unlike more developed cities where former industrial areas like docks have been converted to thriving new neighbourhoods, much of Balykchy’s port area remains a state of decay with no clear path for revitalization. The town’s population has largely stagnated in recent decades, reflecting the broader challenges faced by many post-Soviet industrial centres. Centre of Balykchy town Balykchy: A town in search of a new identity Balykchy presents a unique blend of rustbelt grit and rustic simplicity. The town centre is a hardscrabble patchwork of modest markets focused on metalwork, machinery, and other small-scale trades, reflecting its industrial past. This starkly contrasts with the vast grazing lands and open spaces that surround Issyk-Kul Lake, offering a glimpse into the region’s pastoral heritage. Unlike the more cosmopolitan capital of Bishkek, Balykchy offers few comforts for the modern traveller. During my visit, finding a decent cup of coffee was a challenge—there was only one place that served lattes, and ice was a rarity, available only on one of my two attempts. The absence of a developed café culture is striking, especially when compared to places like Vietnam or Morocco, where even small towns offer inviting cafés as a respite from wandering the streets. Accommodation in Balykchy is primarily limited to homestays, which typically include a basic breakfast. Dining options are concentrated near the market, but they tend to be utilitarian rather than inviting. For travellers accustomed to more vibrant food scenes, the local eateries may feel underwhelming. Despite this, Balykchy offers a glimpse into a slower, less polished side of Central Asia—a town still navigating the transition from its Soviet industrial roots to an uncertain future. Grazing by Issyk-Kul lake in Balykchy The limping economy Balykchy’s name, derived from the word for “fishing,” reflects its early economic foundation as the main port for fishermen on Issyk-Kul Lake. In the early 20th century, the town thrived as a hub for the fishing industry, but overfishing during the Soviet era, combined with the introduction of non-native species, disrupted the lake’s ecological balance. Local demand keeps the industry just about afloat. Today, vendors line the main road selling smoked fish from the lake, a popular product consumed by residents and passing visitors. However, even some of this fish is known to be imported from China. The unique climate of the region, shaped by the never-freezing lake and the surrounding high mountains, has made the area ideal for horticulture. The Issyk-Kul region’s fresh fruits, particularly apples and apricots, are renowned for their distinctive taste, thanks to the region’s climate. Each year, around 30,000 tonnes of apples and 10,000 tonnes of apricots are produced and sold. Given Balykchy’s renowned high winds the region also holds potential for renewable energy, particularly wind power, with vast open land and favourable conditions, though development has been slow. Industrial activity in Balykchy has seen some modest growth in recent years. The town’s industrial output rose from nearly USD2.5 million in 2014 to USD3.3 million in 2018. However, much of its former industrial base, such as its grain processing and storage and wool industry, has languished. The town’s imperious grain silos operate at limited capacity or not at all, and the wool industry has been decimated due to competition from abroad. Although ship repair continues, it is a shadow of its former self, as the decline in fishing and marine activities has led to the diminishing need for such services. Balykchy does hold potential as a logistics hub, thanks to its strategic location along the highway connecting Bishkek to Torugart which borders China. The town hosts several oil depots, food and coal warehouses, and large electrical substations, making it an important link in regional trade. However, despite these advantages, the town’s development is hampered by a lack of investment, leaving it in a state of limbo, far from realizing its full potential. Balykchy continues to exist as a fading remnant of its once-vibrant industrial past, struggling to define its place in the future. Shipyard In front of grain storage facility Dried fish stall on highway in Balykchy After gaining independence, the tourism industry around Issyk-Kul struggled, but in recent years, visitors have started to return, particularly from other parts of Kyrgyzstan, Russia, and landlocked Kazakhstan. However, most travelers bypass Balykchy in favor of more popular destinations like Cholpon-Ata on the northern shore or the area near

Japan

Osaka – Gate Tower

talk2tony / November 12, 2024

OSAKA, JAPAN Osaka’s quirky office with a strange tenant Gate Tower Building in Osaka is a unique symbol of Japan’s brief period as economic superpower Gate Tower Building Osaka, Japan’s third-largest city after Tokyo’s special wards and Yokohama, boasts a population of about 2.7 million and nearly 19 million in its greater metropolitan area. Among its more mainstream landmarks, like the Tsutenkaku Tower and Umeda Sky Building, there exists a truly unusual structure that embodies Japan’s 1980s financial boom and the property bubble that burst in the early ’90s: the Gate Tower Building, known for its unorthodox tenant—a highway. The story of the Gate Tower Building begins in the early 1980s, when an old charcoal factory was closed, and surging land prices made it ideal for redevelopment. However, the property faced a unique obstacle: plans for a new highway were set to pass directly through the land. After five years of negotiations between the determined landowner and the highway authorities, an ingenious compromise was reached, and the building was completed in 1992 with a one-of-a-kind arrangement. Instead of housing typical office tenants, floors 5 to 7 of this 18-story building contain the Hanshin Expressway, with a highway off-ramp running straight through them. The highway authorities actually pay rent to the building owner for their unusual tenancy, and the floors are protected by a casing to minimize vibrations. Elevators bypass these floors entirely, jumping from floor 4 directly to floor 8. This unlikely setup reflects the economic climate of Osaka during the 1980s, when land prices tripled and construction costs represented only a fraction of total development expenses. As a result, developers were driven to bold and inventive solutions. Yet, Gate Tower’s completion coincided with the burst of Japan’s property bubble, the effects of which still linger today. During my visit on a crisp April day, I noticed few other tourists around the area, which felt quiet save for the surrounding highways. The building is located a bit off the beaten path, away from Osaka’s bustling Umeda and Namba districts, though it does have a nearby mall and coffee shop. Tsutenkaku Tower Shinsaibashi center I spent four nights in Osaka, using it as a base to explore not only the city but also nearby Kobe and Kyoto, each about an hour away. Getting to Osaka by shinkansen (bullet train) was a bucket-list experience—though with bullet trains now a worldwide phenomenon, the Japanese trains no longer feel quite as unique. However, they’re still a marvel of efficiency and smoothness. Unfortunately, cloudy skies denied me any views of Mount Fuji along the way. Osaka’s extensive metro system was convenient for getting around. I used the Suica app for most public transport—a practical option for eSIM-compatible phones and accepted across Japan. Physical cards are also available, though chip shortages may limit their supply. Osaka’s metro connections can be confusing, with some long walks between lines. One quirk I noticed: in Tokyo, people stand on the left side of escalators, but in Osaka, it’s customary to stand on the right! Midosuji Boulevard Namba City shopping mall Organic Building In front of Gate Tower Nishishinsaibashi

Kazakhstan

Turkistan

talk2tony / November 10, 2024

TURKISTAN, KAZAKHSTAN Turkistan’s Modern Makeover One of the key cities during the Asian Silk Road period is reinventing itself Karavansaray Entertainment Complex The city of Turkistan (also spelled Turkestan), meaning “land of the Turks,” is located in southern-central Kazakhstan and stands as one of the region’s most historically significant and rapidly developing cities. Positioned closer to Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan, than to either Almaty or Astana in Kazakhstan, Turkistan has a diverse population of approximately 224,000, nearly half of whom are of Uzbek ethnicity.The city’s primary challenge lies in balancing its remarkable historical legacy with its aspirations for modern development. Originally, I expected my visit to focus on Turkistan’s influential role along the Great Silk Road and its rich spiritual and economic history. However, I found myself drawn more to the transformations occurring since 2018, when the Kazakh government initiated significant revitalization efforts. These initiatives aim to accommodate a projected population of 500,000 by 2050 and position Turkistan as a dynamic hub for the broader region. Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi (left) A Historic Legacy Guiding Turkistan’s Growth Archaeological evidence shows that the region now known as Turkistan dates back to the 4th century, with the formal settlement established by nomadic groups in 490. Historically referred to as “Yasy,” the city’s prominence grew significantly due to its location along the Great Silk Road. This strategic positioning facilitated Turkistan’s development into a thriving center for art, science, and global trade. A pivotal figure in the city’s cultural evolution was the esteemed Sufi thinker, poet, and mystic Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, who made Yasy the focal point of his preaching. His influence in the region transformed the city into a major destination for Islamic learning and spiritual reflection, earning it the moniker “the second Mecca” within the Muslim world. Today, Yasawi is interred in the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, which remains the city’s most significant structure. Recognizing its historical value, the mausoleum was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2003. In addition to Yasawi, 21 Kazakh khans and eight sultans are also buried in the city, further cementing its role as a historical and cultural epicenter. Known as the spiritual capital of the Turkic world by the Cooperation Council of Turkic-Speaking States, Turkistan attracts thousands of pilgrims annually. A local tradition holds that visiting the city three times is equivalent to one pilgrimage to Mecca, underscoring its religious importance to the Kazakh steppes and the wider Turkic region. Former glories The decline of the Great Silk Road, spurred by wars and the rise of maritime trade routes, gradually diminished Turkistan’s significance as a thriving caravanserai town where traders once rested, shared ideas, and exchanged goods. Over time, Turkistan transformed from a bustling hub of activity into a quieter waypoint, leaving behind traces of its former glory. While Turkistan’s historical appeal remains, today’s visitor might find the city’s offerings modest compared to the lively souks or bustling medinas of other destinations. The historic core is small, with key attractions, including the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi and a compact underground mosque, located a few kilometers from the town center. For just 500 tenge (about 1.25 USD), a joint ticket grants access to both, but these sites may only require a brief visit for casual tourists. Picking up the left overs Turkistan’s Modernization Turkistan offers limited tourist attractions, and much of the city lacks vibrancy, apart from the activity on its western side, where affordable accommodations are more readily available, a few kilometers from the historic core. To revitalize the historical area, considerable efforts have been made to enhance its appeal, including the creation of scenic parks, a camel-riding area, and a range of new lodging and entertainment options. The centerpiece of these efforts is the Karavansaray Turkistan Tourist Complex, featuring a striking shopping center designed to attract visitors. While at first, these modern additions may appear to dilute the city’s legacy, their development was seen as necessary to reinvigorate Turkistan’s role in the region. The push for modernization began in 2018, when Shymkent—previously the largest city in the South Kazakhstan Region—was placed under direct governance by Kazakhstan. This reorganization elevated Turkistan to the status of regional administrative center, leading to the renaming of the area as Turkistan Region. This region remains one of the poorest in Kazakhstan, with a once-powerful cotton industry that has waned significantly over the last century due to Russian dominance in large-scale trading operations. However, it is home to the country’s largest uranium reserves, and over the past five years, industrial output has more than doubled, driven by mining and metallurgy manufacturing. The modernization of Turkistan aims to leverage these resources and bring new economic vitality to the city, establishing it as a cultural and industrial focal point in Kazakhstan. Karavansaray Turkistan Tourist Complex Remembering the past The “Special” new growth drivers The primary elements of Turkistan’s growth strategy are integrated under the framework of a Special Economic Zone (SEZ), providing significant tax incentives to spur development. This SEZ includes an international airport built in 2020, though currently limited in flight availability, along with three industrial zones—one of which hosts an established tenant base—and the complex encompassing the historical sites. Notably, this SEZ extends beyond industry to support tourism and cultural areas, making it one of the most generous SEZ initiatives globally. The Karavansaray Turkistan Tourist Complex, a short walk from the historical sites, adds an extended dimension to the visitor experience. Named after the historic caravanserais that dotted ancient trade routes across Asia, the complex centers around an expansive shopping center complete with a canal and lake. It also hosts several high-end hotels, along with a selection of attractive two- to three-level residential buildings, aimed at buyers seeking close proximity to the area’s amenities. Despite its striking design and the welcome relief it provides from the desert heat, the complex felt underutilized during a weekday visit. Most stores cater to high-end fashion, with food and beverage options limited. Most are poorly located and with

Kazakhstan

Astana

talk2tony / October 23, 2024

ASTANA, KAZAKHSTAN Astana’s Rise: Where Substance Meets Style Astana, Kazakhstan’s capital since 1997, has transformed from a futuristic architectural experiment into a vibrant, rapidly growing city. With striking designs and increasing energy, it’s becoming a dynamic, functional hub on the global stage Bayterek Tower in the centre Astana has been Kazakhstan’s capital since 1997, and in that time, it has rapidly transformed into a city known not just for its striking skyline but also for its burgeoning energy. While it once might have been dismissed as an architectural oddity, with comparisons to Dubai for its futuristic design, today Astana’s vibrancy rivals that of Almaty, the country’s commercial powerhouse. In the past, it was easy for outsiders to view Astana as more spectacle than substance. A 2015 article in The Guardian even dubbed it a “toy-city,” a sentiment shared by many observers at the time. New capitals often face mixed reviews. I’ve seen both ends of the spectrum myself—while Ankara impressed me with its blend of tradition and modernity, Brasilia felt oddly disconnected from the essence of Brazil, and Naypyidaw, Myanmar’s capital, seemed more surreal than functional, with its eerie, empty 20-lane highway as its centerpiece. But Astana breaks this mold. It’s not just the bold, sometimes quirky architecture that makes it stand out; it’s the fact that these buildings form the backdrop to a city that is becoming genuinely lively, increasingly functional, and home to nearly 1.5 million people. The packed buses during rush hour and the sprawling residential developments tell the real story of its growth. Despite its rapid development, Astana isn’t without quirks that make it easy to poke fun at. The city holds the unusual distinction of having undergone the most name changes of any capital in the world. Starting as Akmolinsk, evolving to Tselinograd and then Aqmola, it became simply Astana—which translates to “capital” in Kazakh—in 1997. But in 2019, the name was changed to Nur-Sultan, in honor of the country’s long-serving president after his retirement. By 2022, it reverted back to Astana, reflecting Kazakhstan’s effort to balance legacy with a forward-looking identity. The confusion lingers, though—train tickets and maps sometimes show both names. On one ticket, I arrived in Astana; on another, I departed from Nur-Sultan—yet both took me to the same station. Atyrau Bridge Diverse growth drivers power Astana’s expansion Astana’s office market is booming, with 1.158 million sqm of Grade B and above office space, not far behind Almaty’s 1.165 million sqm, according to Cushman & Wakefield. The city’s office spaces are home to tenants from various sectors, including mining, energy, transport and a rapidly expanding IT industry, heavily supported by government initiatives. While wealth in many countries tends to concentrate in commercial capitals, Kazakhstan’s resource-rich landscape spreads wealth generation across the country. Astana plays a crucial role as a commercial hub for industries operating in the north and east, including mining in ƒnearby Karaganda region. Industrial production is also a key player, with factories on the city’s outskirts focusing on food processing and construction materials. Astana’s economic growth is evident in its ongoing construction boom, including a 21.5 km metro system that will connect the airport, new train station, and city center. Inbound investment is largely concentrated in real estate and transport infrastructure, sectors critical to supporting the city’s rapid expansion. Construction of Almaty metro (2024) Visitors to Astana will notice the 97-meter Bayterek Tower, a central landmark that defines the skyline. While the views from the top are popular with tourists, the tower’s yellow-tinted windows can slightly detract from the experience. It does make for a great crown like selfie! Beyond the Bayterek Tower, Astana’s cityscape includes a mix of functional and architecturally distinctive buildings that reflect its rapid modernization. Unlike many vanity projects elsewhere, these structures serve a practical purpose, supporting the city’s growing status as a regional hub. Wearing the crown Stolichny Circus Grade A Towers in Astana: The City’s Business Backbone Astana’s skyline is dominated by modern office towers that reflect the city’s rapid development. The tallest of them all, Abu Dhabi Plaza, stands at 311 meters and is directly connected to the upcoming metro line, slated for completion by 2026. Alongside Abu Dhabi Plaza is Talan Tower, both are classified as Grade A office spaces. These buildings are part of multi-use developments, combining luxury hotels and office spaces for international corporations. Abu Dhabi Plaza Talan Towers Near the iconic Baiterek Monument, you’ll find the Emerald Towers, a striking architectural feature of Astana. These towers, designed by Canadian architect Roy Varacalli, display a unique asymmetry. Originally planned as a trio, only two towers were completed due to the 2008 financial crisis, but they still stand tall at 201 meters and 180 meters. The tallest tower houses KazMunayGas, Kazakhstan’s national oil and gas company. Nearby, the Kazakhstan Temir Zholy Towers is the headquarters of Kazakhstan’s national railway company. One of the earlier additions to Astana’s skyline is the Astana Tower, which marked the beginning of the city’s architectural evolution. Temer Zholy Tower & Emerald Tower Almaty Tower Astana Shopping: Where Winter Meets Warmth During my visit, temperatures ranged from 20 to 32 degrees Celsius, making it pleasant to stroll along Astana’s wide boulevards. However, the city’s long winters are a different story—Astana is the second coldest capital in the world after Ulaanbaatar, with temperatures plunging to -35 degrees. As a result, large indoor spaces are essential, offering not only sports facilities but also a wide range of international-quality shopping centers. The entrances to many of these malls may appear somewhat austere, often featuring fire doors instead of welcoming sliding glass, but this design makes perfect sense given the brutal winter conditions. Typical door entrance to mall Keruen shopping mall One standout is the Khan Shatyr shopping mall, one of the most unique retail centers I’ve visited. Designed by Norman Foster and completed in 2006, its 90-meter-high tent structure adds a dramatic flair to Astana’s skyline, especially when illuminated in vibrant colors at night. Inside, you’ll find everything from

Greece

Athens in winter

talk2tony / June 21, 2024

ATHENS, GREECE Athens Unveiled: Winter’s Sunny Surprises and Snowy Adventures Changeable weather in the Greek capital makes life tolerable and somewhat interesting Greece might be known for its sun-drenched summers, but I decided to trade the beach for a winter adventure. What I found was a city with a surprisingly diverse winter experience. Athens’ winter weather between very chilly, wet days and surprisingly warmish, sunny stretches. On several occasions, I even enjoyed basking in the midday sun, a welcome change from my usual Southeast Asian routine of avoiding the scorching heat. On a few occasions, the city even surprised everyone with a rare snowfall, turning the Acropolis into an ethereal, winter wonderland. Apartment Adventures and Challenges in Athens For personal reasons and a desire for a milder winter, I spent two months (December 2021 – February 2022) exploring Athens. Compared to other European capitals, Athens boasted a noticeably more temperate climate. My exploration involved staying at two apartments – one near Victoria Square and another by the Acropolis. The first, while spacious, lacked proper heating. This became a significant drawback on colder nights, highlighting the importance of researching heating options when choosing winter accommodations. Thankfully, my second apartment came equipped with central heating, proving essential in February when temperatures dipped significantly. Athens in winter offers a mix of outdoor adventures and cozy escapes. Sunny days were perfect for long walks and tram rides, soaking in the crisp air and vibrant city atmosphere. Rainy days were challenging, however, but provided an excuse to indulge in delicious mezedes (Greek tapas) at home sourced from the excellent supermarkets all over the city or escape the elements with a latte at my refuge, the “Heart of Athens” mall. My monthly travel card became my saving grace, allowing for these budget-friendly escapes. Unfortunately, there are only a limited number of malls or other options in Athens during these miserable periods although museums can be an alternative. Snowman in front of the Acropolis Snowy treats The snow flurry that lasted a few days transformed Athens into a winter wonderland. The city effectively came to a standstill and the government even announced a two-day public holiday with overhead transport grounding to a halt. This offered a unique opportunity to explore the Acropolis dusted with virgin snow. The sight was magical, and with most Athenians lacking proper winter gear, I practically had the place to myself. It was a refreshing novelty, considering my years spent in Asia. According to the locals, snow is a rare occurrence but had happened for two years in a row. As expected, after the crisp, clean snow came slippery streets and finally the ugly grey slush. It was difficult keeping balance especially walking around the hilly area where my second apartment was located. Panepistimio business district shut down Sunshine and Tram rides: Athens Awakens The depressing weather spells are thankfully short-lived, normally lasting a few days. Not enough time to dampen your spirits too much. The sun often emerges, transforming the city into a bright tapestry. These days are perfect for long walks and tram rides, soaking in the city’s atmosphere. Weekends find locals and a sprinkle of tourists enjoying coffee at the countless cozy cafes. However, remember, it’s still winter. A sudden cloud can cool things down, and sunsets arrive early. Layering clothes and having a handy jacket is key to navigating the ever-changing weather. On these crisp, sunny days, I particularly enjoyed riding the coastal tram. Hopping off at stops allowed me to explore the surroundings and witness the resilience of the locals, mostly elderly folks, taking a dip in the chilly Aegean Sea. While Athenian winters might not be perfect, they do offer pockets of sunshine and activity. And in February, with spring just around the corner, that light at the end of the tunnel becomes a beacon of hope. For those willing to embrace the unexpected and navigate the challenges alongside the charms, Athens offers a distinctive winter experience, showcasing a different side of this historic city. Paralia Glyfadas beach during a sunny winter day

Author name: talk2tony