TURKEY (TÜRKİYE)
Izmir: Ancient Roots, Modern Energy
Turkey’s third-largest city blends ancient history with a modern, progressive energy
Izmir, the third most populous city in Turkey (officially Türkiye) after Istanbul and Ankara, is often overlooked by foreign tourists who tend to prioritize the country’s coastal resorts, ancient ruins, and striking landscapes. This oversight is unfortunate, as Izmir has much to offer those willing to explore it. Known for its secular and progressive spirit, the city presents a refreshing contrast to traditional perceptions of the country. While Izmir boasts a rich history and several notable sites, it was the modernity, energy, and self-assured vibrancy of this remarkable city that left the strongest impression on me during my visit.
Izmir at a glance
- Turkey’s third-largest city and a major coastal centre on the Aegean Sea
- Known for its progressive, secular atmosphere and more relaxed pace of life
- Efficient trams, ferries, metro and commuter rail make the city easy to explore
- Blends over 3,000 years of history with modern skyscrapers, shopping malls and business districts
- A strong base for visiting nearby attractions such as Ephesus and the town of Selçuk
The bay that shapes Izmir
Izmir’s geography is cantered around the beautiful Gulf of Izmir, which stretches inland from the Aegean Sea and defines the city as a lively coastal centre. The city wraps around the gulf to the north, south, and east, resembling a natural amphitheatre that faces the water. To the north, neighbourhoods line the shoreline and ascend rugged hills, while the south and east showcase the urban core spreading across flatter land. This geographic arrangement not only enhances the bay’s beauty but also fosters a sense of connection among the city’s diverse districts, all linked by the sparkling waters at their centre. The bay itself is crucial to Izmir’s life, acting as both a scenic highlight and a busy route for ferries that connect different parts of the city.
Much like Istanbul, Izmir benefits from a comprehensive, affordable, and efficient public transport network that not only connects visitors to the city’s main attractions but also provides a glimpse into the everyday life of its residents. During my visit, I was fortunate to purchase the Izmirim Kart, a prepaid card that makes traveling across all modes of transport seamless. However, finding the one shop that sold the card at the intercity bus station proved to be a challenge. Unfortunately, the bus station (otogar) itself is not an ideal introduction to the city—an uninviting and confusing concrete structure. Thankfully, buses are available to whisk away visitors quickly to the city centre.
Getting around Izmir
The trams of Izmir
Izmir’s tram network provides not only an efficient way to navigate the city but also a chance to enjoy scenic views along the northern and southern baylines. While trams were originally part of Izmir’s transit system from 1890 to 1960, they were reintroduced in 2017 to help alleviate growing traffic congestion. Owned by the İzmir Metropolitan Municipality and operated by İzmir Metro A.Ş., the system now consists of three lines.
The T1 and T2 lines are especially appealing, skirting the coastline and offering travellers views across the bay while connecting many of the city’s cultural and recreational areas. The T3, while less scenic, serves as an important addition to Izmir’s public transport network, improving accessibility in the Çiğli district.
If you are staying in Izmir’s southern bay area, where most of the city’s accommodation and tourist attractions are concentrated, the T2 tram line is likely to be the most convenient option for getting around, especially if your time is limited. The line connects seamlessly with the metro at three points and intersects with the overhead İZBAN commuter rail, making it a vital part of the city’s transport network.
The newest addition to Izmir’s tram system is the Çiğli Tram (T3), a 12 km line serving 14 stations in the northern district of Çiğli. Opened in January 2024, it operates as two circular services: the Red (Outer) Line and the Blue (Inner) Line, improving connections across an area previously less well served by rail transport. While not as scenic as the bayfront T1 and T2 routes, the line plays an important role in expanding access across the northern suburbs.
T2 line highlights
One of the key stops on the T2 line is Konak İskele, situated near Izmir’s historic central square. This bustling area is ideal for a leisurely stroll and offers an array of dining and drinking options, capturing much of the city’s vibrant atmosphere. Another important stop is Alsancak Train Station, the city’s main railway hub, providing easy access to regional and long-distance train services.
The T2 line follows a scenic route along the coastline, making it worthwhile to ride the entire line. The western section is particularly noteworthy, leading to several interesting destinations. At Üçkuyular Station, the tram veers away from the coast and heads south towards its terminus. Around 500 metres north of the station lies Engelliler Park, a peaceful spot surrounding the Çakalburnu Lagoon. This hidden oasis features a striking red bridge crossing the lagoon and offers a welcome escape from the city’s bustle.
Continuing westward, just another 500 metres from Engelliler Park, you will find Izmir Marina. This pleasant area has a colourful collection of small boats, some of which serve traditional Turkish fish meals and drinks. The marina is also home to the Wyndham Grand İzmir Özdilek Thermal & Spa, alongside a shopping mall.
The final stop on the T2 line is İstinyePark İzmir Mall, which, in my view, is the most impressive shopping centre in the city. Beyond its extensive retail offering, the mall also connects to the metro, providing an alternative route back to the city centre. Ferries to the northern shore can also be taken from several stops along the route.
Discovering Karşıyaka wthe T1 Tram
In many ways, the T1 line covering the Karşıyaka district feels like a mirror image of the T2 line on the southern bay. It offers a similarly pleasant journey along the coastline, passing monuments, harbours and modern shopping malls. I began my exploration at the popular Karşıyaka ferry terminal and walked to the eastern terminus at Alaybey. If you are short on time, you could start your tram journey directly from the ferry terminal, though it is worth walking a few hundred metres to see the noteworthy Atatürk Monument, dedicated to the founder of modern Turkey.
From there, the tram heads westward, skirting picturesque coastal parks before passing the bustling Bostanlı Harbor. Along the way, one particularly interesting area near a tram stop is the Mavişehir Fishing Shelter [map], a rustic spot where small fishing boats find refuge. The route culminates in a semi-circle around two popular open-air shopping malls, providing a mix of leisure and retail opportunities. The T1 line also connects to the T3 line, enhancing accessibility for those looking to explore more of Izmir.
During my time in Turkey, the Turkish lira devalued from around 7 to 14 to the dollar. While this economic shift had significant implications, local prices for transport remained largely stable throughout my four-month stay. As a result, the already inexpensive tram fares became even more affordable, allowing me to make the most of the system. I particularly enjoyed hopping off the tram at interesting points to explore on foot, walking a couple of stops before jumping back on. This approach gave me a deeper appreciation for the city’s character and rhythm. Autumn’s mild weather made these walks especially enjoyable for me. However, during Izmir’s sweltering summer months, I would recommend sticking to the air-conditioned trams to stay comfortable while exploring.
The transport workhorses – Metro and İZBAN
In most cities, the backbone of the public transport system often lies in networks not frequently used by tourists, as their primary purpose is to connect business districts and residential areas rather than focus on visitor attractions. Izmir is no exception.
The İZBAN, Izmir’s commuter overhead railway system, commenced operations in 2010. Spanning 136 km with 41 stations, it is Turkey’s busiest commuter rail network, slightly surpassing Istanbul’s Marmaray line in passenger numbers. For visitors, the İZBAN is most likely to be useful as a convenient connection between the city centre — particularly Alsancak Station — and Izmir’s international airport, Adnan Menderes Havalimanı.
The Izmir Metro, on the other hand, offers a faster way to navigate the city, especially when time is limited. Covering 27 km with 24 stations, the metro primarily runs underground, making for a less scenic journey. However, it provides access to the higher elevations in the south of the city and the lively student district of Bornova, known for its bohemian nightlife.
Heading west, the metro line passes through an area with several shopping malls around Çağdaş Station. From here, it is about a 15-minute walk to the city’s Teleferik (cable car), which offers panoramic views across Izmir.
Ferry fun
One of the true highlights of visiting Izmir is its incredibly affordable ferry service, which primarily connects the northern and southern bays of the city. Similar to Istanbul’s ferries but simpler in scope (with no outer islands to navigate), the service offers a picturesque way to experience the city from the water. I took full advantage of this by combining a semi-circular ferry journey around the bay with rides on the two tram lines — a surprisingly enjoyable way to spend a day. To immerse yourself more fully, though, consider stretching this itinerary over two days and taking in the city at a slower pace.
Using the Izmirim Card makes the system even more convenient and cost-effective. When travelling on the metro, tram, suburban trains or ferries, your second and subsequent rides within a 90-minute window after the first are free — a genuinely useful perk for budget-conscious travellers.
It is worth noting that ferry schedules vary. Some routes operate frequently throughout the day, while others are largely limited to morning and evening rush hours. Although ferries are one of the more relaxing and scenic ways to get around Izmir, it is best to avoid them during peak commuting periods, as boats can become uncomfortably crowded.
Lastly, a word of caution: while feeding seagulls by hand is a popular local pastime, it is probably best enjoyed as a spectator. I witnessed one particularly eager bird leave a passenger with a bloody finger — a reminder that some traditions are better appreciated from a distance!
Tourist attractions and historic Izmir
Izmir struck me as a city better known for its coastal vibe and modern, progressive atmosphere than for traditional tourist attractions. Yet it is also a city with deep historical roots, boasting more than 3,000 years of recorded urban history and up to 8,500 years of human settlement dating back to the Neolithic period. In classical antiquity, Izmir was known as Smyrna, a name still used in English and other languages until around 1930.
One of the most significant remnants of the city’s past is the Agora of Smyrna [map], once a vibrant marketplace and gathering area. Although much of the site was damaged or destroyed by earthquakes over the centuries, it remains an important symbol of Izmir’s ancient history. Originally built by the Greeks in the 4th century BC, the agora was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 178 AD and later rebuilt under the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius. Excavations began in 1933 and continue to this day.
For a panoramic view across the city, the Teleferik (cable car) is worth considering, although during my visit the surrounding area felt somewhat run down and the views were obscured by the weather. Konak Square, the heart of the city, is a lively area filled with statues, shops and local dining options. For a memorable day trip, the town of Selçuk is popular due to its proximity to the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Ephesus. Among the best-preserved archaeological sites in Turkey, the ruins are about an hour away by train, followed by a short walk to the entrance.
Modern Izmir: retail, offices and skyline growth
Retail in Izmir
Despite significant development in recent years, Izmir’s retail market remains somewhat underserved relative to its population, especially when compared with other developed regions of Turkey. However, the city has seen the emergence of several impressive shopping centres over the past decade. The standout is İstinyePark İzmir, which opened in October 2021. Developed by Doğuş Group, one of Turkey’s major conglomerates, the mall has a leasable area of 86,000 square metres and around 270 stores, including many well-known luxury brands.
For a more open-air experience, MaviBahçe Shopping Center [map] offers a refreshing atmosphere, with a sprawling garden at its centre that makes it a popular choice for shoppers seeking a more relaxed setting. Another distinctive option is Konak Pier Shopping Mall, a conversion of the historic Old Customs Building. Located along the waterfront, it offers numerous dining and drinking options with attractive sea views. While the concept and location are appealing, I found the mall somewhat underwhelming due to an inconsistent tenant mix.
Overall, Izmir’s retail market shows considerable promise, supported by a growing economy and improving accessibility through the city’s expanding public transport system. With continued development, the city is gradually catching up with the needs of its diverse and growing population.
Office towers reshape the skyline
Over the past two decades, Izmir has undergone a significant transformation, with a surge in commercial activity reshaping its skyline through the development of modern office buildings. As of 2024, average office rents in Izmir stood at approximately $18 per square metre — roughly half the cost of comparable space in Istanbul — positioning the city as an attractive alternative for businesses seeking quality office accommodation at more competitive rates.
Izmir’s venture into high-rise office development began in 2001 with Heris Tower, the city’s first prominent office high-rise. However, most of the commercial real estate boom has taken place over the past decade, resulting in a series of increasingly recognisable towers that now help define the city’s skyline.
One of the most notable additions is the Mistral Office Tower a 48-floor mixed-use development incorporating residential and hotel space. Not only is it a flagship project, but it also holds the distinction of being Turkey’s tallest building outside Istanbul, reinforcing Izmir’s growing reputation as a commercial hub. Another standout project is Novus Tower, completed in 2018, which offers an unusual luxury feature: private balconies attached to many office units, blending practicality with a more comfortable working environment.
Mixed-use developments have become a hallmark of Izmir’s evolving skyline. Folkart Towers 1 & 2, each standing 40 floors tall, were once the city’s tallest buildings. The towers take a somewhat unconventional approach: while upper floors in most mixed-use developments are usually reserved for premium residential units, the highest levels of Folkart Towers are instead dedicated to office space, with residential areas occupying the lower floors.
Chart: Gross Domestic Product per Capita
High-end hotels grow in the city
İzmir province welcomed 1.6 million foreign visitors in the first 10 months of 2024, marking a 15.4% increase compared with the same period in 2023, according to figures from the Culture and Tourism Ministry. Germany stood out as the leading source of international visitors, contributing more than 473,000 tourists during the period and underlining İzmir’s continued appeal to European travellers.
As of the end of 2024, the supply of high-end hotel rooms in İzmir had reached 1,871, representing significant growth over the previous 12 years. This expansion reflects İzmir’s increasing role as a business destination, while tourism still remains somewhat secondary. The city now has several branded hotels, many integrated into mixed-use developments — a growing global trend that combines hospitality with retail and leisure space.
Among the most notable is the Hyatt Regency İzmir İstinyePark, located next to what is arguably the city’s most impressive shopping mall, İstinyePark İzmir.
Chart: Supply of Upper-scale hotel rooms in Izmir city
Living in Izmir: homes and changing lifestyles
In the last ten years, Izmir has experienced a surge in major residential developments that have helped reshape the city’s skyline. The market remains primarily driven by local buyers, although foreign purchases declined slightly in 2023. Foreign sales fell to 739 units, down from 1,322 in 2022, likely reflecting a decline in Russian buyers following an initial surge after the start of the Russia–Ukraine war.
In 2023, Izmir accounted for around 2% of foreign property purchases in Turkey, despite representing roughly 5% of overall housing sales nationally. For overseas buyers, Istanbul and the coastal region of Antalya remain the dominant choices. Coastal areas west of Izmir province, particularly the prestigious beachfront district of Çeşme, are considerably more expensive than the city itself, with average prices around $2,900 per square metre.
Some of the city’s standout residential projects include Mahall Bomonti Izmir, built on the site of a historic brewery and featuring 457 residences alongside a theatre. Ege Perla Residence Tower, part of a mixed-use development near the port, and the iconic Folkart Towers 1 & 2, together with Folkart Vega (which contains 795 units), are key examples of Izmir’s expanding residential landscape. Located just 700 metres from the sea, Folkart Vega benefits from both luxury positioning and convenience in the heart of the city. Folkart Incity, near Sanayi Metro Station, is another notable development offering convenient access to key areas of Izmir.
İzmir is a city full of contrasts and connections, where echoes of history sit alongside a modern skyline of office towers, shopping centres and new residential developments. With its efficient public transport, coastal setting and increasingly cosmopolitan atmosphere, the city is developing a distinct identity — progressive yet still firmly rooted in a heritage stretching back thousands of years.
Tony's takeaway
Izmir offers a great blend of old and new within a fairly compact city. Like Istanbul, getting around is not only easy thanks to the wide range of public transport options, but often part of the experience itself — whether crossing the bay by ferry or hugging the coastline on the trams. While the city can still feel a little rough around the edges in places, that arguably adds to its character rather than detracts from it.
The city is well worth more than a fleeting stop. To me, Izmir felt like one of the best places in Turkey to understand where modern Turkey may be headed while still keeping a firm eye on its past. More than many cities, it also felt somewhere you could genuinely imagine living rather than simply passing through.
