IZMIR, TURKEY (TÜRKİYE)
Izmir: Ancient Roots, Modern Vibes
Izmir seamlessly blends ancient heritage with modern vibrancy, showcasing historic ruins, sleek skyscrapers, and dynamic shopping hubs, all underscored by a progressive spirit and efficient urban connectivity.
Izmir, the third most populous city in Turkey (officially Türkiye) after Istanbul and Ankara, is often overlooked by foreign tourists who tend to prioritize the country’s coastal resorts, ancient ruins, and striking landscapes. This oversight is unfortunate, as Izmir has much to offer those willing to explore it. Known for its secular and progressive spirit, the city presents a refreshing contrast to traditional perceptions of the country. While Izmir boasts a rich history and several notable sites, it was the modernity, energy, and self-assured vibrancy of this remarkable city that left the strongest impression on me during my visit in late 2021.
The Bay That Defines the Character of Izmir
Izmir’s geography is cantered around the beautiful Gulf of Izmir, which stretches inland from the Aegean Sea and defines the city as a lively coastal centre. The city wraps around the gulf to the north, south, and east, resembling a natural amphitheatre that faces the water. To the north, neighbourhoods line the shoreline and ascend rugged hills, while the south and east showcase the urban core spreading across flatter land. This geographic arrangement not only enhances the bay’s beauty but also fosters a sense of connection among the city’s diverse districts, all linked by the sparkling waters at their centre. The bay itself is crucial to Izmir’s life, acting as both a scenic highlight and a busy route for ferries that connect different parts of the city.
Much like Istanbul, Izmir benefits from a comprehensive, affordable, and efficient public transport network that not only connects visitors to the city’s main attractions but also provides a glimpse into the everyday life of its residents. During my visit, I was fortunate to purchase the Izmirim Kart, a prepaid card that makes traveling across all modes of transport seamless. However, finding the one shop that sold the card at the intercity bus station proved to be a challenge. Unfortunately, the bus station (otogar) itself is not an ideal introduction to the city—an uninviting and confusing concrete structure. Thankfully, buses are available to whisk away visitors quickly to the city centre.
The trams of Izmir
Izmir’s tram network provides not only an efficient way to navigate the city but also a chance to enjoy scenic views along the northern and southern baylines. While trams were originally part of Izmir’s transit system from 1890 to 1960, they were reintroduced in 2017 to alleviate increasing traffic congestion. Owned by the İzmir Metropolitan Municipality and operated by İzmir Metro A.Ş., the system now consists of three lines:
T1 (Karşıyaka Tram): Opened in 2017, this line runs along the northern side of the bay, offering picturesque views and connecting key districts in Karşıyaka.
T2 (Konak Tram): Inaugurated on 24 March 2018, this line follows a linear route along the southern bay, passing through central areas such as Alsancak and Konak, making it particularly popular with commuters and visitors alike.
T3 (Çiğli Tram): Opened in early 2024, this line forms a circular route in the northwest of the city, primarily serving residential and industrial areas and offering fewer attractions for tourists.
The T1 and T2 lines are especially appealing, skirting the coastline and providing travellers with views of the bay while connecting many of the city’s cultural and recreational spots. The T3, while less scenic, serves as an important addition to Izmir’s public transport network, enhancing accessibility in the Çiğli area.
If you’re staying in Izmir’s southern bay area, where most of the city’s accommodation and tourist attractions are concentrated, the T2 tram line is likely to be your most convenient option for getting around, especially if your time is limited. This line connects seamlessly with the metro at three points and intersects with the overhead İZBAN line, making it a vital part of the city’s transit network.
T2 Line highlights
One of the key stops on the T2 line is Konak İskele, situated near Izmir’s historic central square. This bustling area is perfect for a leisurely stroll and offers an array of dining and drinking options, capturing the vibrant atmosphere of the city. Another important stop is Alsancak Train Station, which serves as the city’s main railway hub, providing easy access to regional and long-distance train services.
The T2 line follows a scenic route along the coastline, making it a delightful experience to ride the entire line. The western section of the route is particularly noteworthy, as it leads to some fascinating destinations. At Üçkuyular Station, the tram veers away from the coast and heads south toward its terminus. About 500 meters north of this station lies Engelliler Park, a serene spot surrounding the Çakalburnu Lagoon. This hidden oasis features a striking red bridge crossing the lagoon and offers a tranquil escape from the city’s hustle and bustle.
Continuing westward, just another 500 meters from Engelliler Park, you’ll find Izmir Marina. This charming area boasts a colourful collection of small boats, some of which serve traditional Turkish fish meals and drinks. The marina is also home to the Wyndham Grand İzmir Özdilek Thermal & Spa, as well as a shopping mall.
The final stop on the T2 line is İstinyePark İzmir Mall, in my view the most impressive shopping centre in the city. This mall not only offers an extensive shopping experience but also connects to the metro, providing an alternative route back to the city centre. You can also take a ferry to the northern shore from a number of stops along this route.
Discovering Karşıyaka with Izmir's T1 Tram Adventure
In many ways, the T1 line covering Karşıyaka district feels like a mirror image of the T2 line on the southern bay. It offers a similarly pleasant journey along the coastline, passing by monuments, harbors, and modern shopping malls. I began my exploration at the popular Karşıyaka ferry terminal and walked to the eastern terminus at Alaybey. If you’re short on time, you could start your tram journey directly from the ferry terminal, but it’s worth walking a few hundred meters to see the noteworthy Atatürk Monument, dedicated to the founder of modern Turkey.
From there, the tram heads westward, skirting picturesque coastal parks before passing the bustling Bostanlı Harbor. Along the way, one particularly interesting area near a tram stop is the Mavişehir Fishing Shelter [map], a rustic spot where small fishing boats find refuge. The route culminates in a semi-circle around two popular open-air shopping malls, providing a mix of leisure and retail opportunities. The T1 line also connects to the T3 line, enhancing accessibility for those looking to explore more of Izmir.
During my time in Turkey, the Turkish lira devalued from around 7 to 14 to the dollar. While this economic shift had significant implications, local prices for transport remained largely stable throughout my four-month stay. As a result, the already inexpensive tram fares became even more affordable, allowing me to make the most of the system. I particularly enjoyed hopping off the tram at interesting points to explore on foot, walking a couple of stops before jumping back on. This approach gave me a deeper appreciation for the city’s character and rhythm. Autumn’s mild weather made these walks especially enjoyable for me. However, during Izmir’s sweltering summer months, I’d recommend sticking to the air-conditioned trams to stay comfortable while exploring.
The transport workhorses – The Izmir Metro and İZBAN
In most cities, the backbone of public transport systems often lies in networks not frequently used by tourists, as their primary purpose is to connect business districts and residential areas rather than focus on visitor attractions. Izmir is no exception.The İZBAN, Izmir’s commuter overhead railway system, commenced operations in 2010. Spanning 136 km with 41 stations, it is Turkey’s busiest commuter rail network, slightly surpassing Istanbul’s Marmaray line in passenger numbers. For visitors, the İZBAN is most likely to be useful as a convenient connection between the city centre—particularly Alsancak station—and Izmir’s international airport, Adnan Menderes Havalimanı.
The Izmir Metro, on the other hand, offers a faster way to navigate the city, especially when time is limited. Covering 27 km with 24 stations, the metro primarily runs underground, which makes for a less scenic journey. However, it provides access to higher elevations in the south of the city and the lively student district of Bornova, known for its bohemian nightlife.
Heading west, the metro line passes through an area with several shopping malls around Çağdaş station. From here, it’s about a 15-minute walk to the entrance of the city’s cable car, which offers panoramic views of Izmir.
Ferry fun
One of the true highlights of a visit to Izmir is experiencing its incredibly affordable ferry service, which primarily connects the northern and southern bays of the city. Similar to Istanbul’s ferries but simpler in scope (with no outer islands to navigate), this service offers a picturesque way to explore the city from the water. I took full advantage of this by combining a semi-circular ferry journey around the bay with rides on the two tram lines—a delightful way to spend a day. To truly immerse yourself, though, consider stretching this itinerary over two days to soak up the city’s unique atmosphere at a more leisurely pace.
Using the Izmirim Card makes it even more convenient and cost-effective. When travelling on the subway, tram, suburban trains, or ferries, your second and subsequent rides within a 90-minute window after your first ride are free—a fantastic perk for budget-conscious travellers.
It’s worth noting that ferry schedules vary. Some routes run frequently throughout the day, while others are limited to morning and evening rush hours. Although ferries are a relaxing and scenic way to traverse Izmir, it’s best to avoid them during peak commute times, as the boats can become uncomfortably crowded.
Lastly, a word of caution: while feeding the seagulls by hand is a popular local activity, it’s best to enjoy it as a spectator. I witnessed one overly eager bird leaving a passenger with a bloody finger—a reminder that some traditions are better appreciated from a distance!
Tourist attractions in Izmir
Izmir struck me as a city more known for its coastal vibes and modern, progressive atmosphere than for traditional tourist attractions. Yet, it is a city with deep historical roots, boasting over 3,000 years of recorded urban history and up to 8,500 years of human settlement, dating back to the Neolithic period. In classical antiquity, Izmir was known as Smyrna, a name still used in English and other languages until around 1930. One of the most significant remnants of its past is the Agora of Smyrna [map], a once-vibrant marketplace and assembly area. Though much of the site was destroyed by earthquakes over the centuries, it remains a key symbol of the city’s ancient history. Originally built by the Greeks in the 4th century BC, the agora was damaged by an earthquake in 178 AD and later reconstructed under Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius. Excavations began in 1933 and continue to this day.
For a panoramic view of the city, the Teleferik (cable car) is worth a visit, although during my trip, the surrounding area appeared somewhat run down, and the views were obscured by the weather. Konak Square, the heart of the city, is a lively area filled with statues, shops, and local dining options. For a memorable day trip, the town of Selçuk is a popular destination due to its proximity to the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Ephesus. These ruins are among the best-preserved in Turkey and are located about an hour away by train, with a short additional walk to reach Ephesus itself.
Retail in Izmir
Despite significant development in recent years, Izmir’s retail market remains somewhat underserved relative to its population, especially when compared to other developed regions in Turkey. However, the city has seen the rise of several impressive shopping centres over the past decade. The standout is İstinyePark İzmir, which opened in October 2021. Developed by Doğuş Group, a prominent Turkish conglomerate, the mall boasts a leasable area of 86,000 square meters with 270 stores, including many well-known luxury brands.
For a more open-air experience, MaviBahçe Shopping Center [map] offers a refreshing atmosphere with a sprawling garden at its heart, making it a popular destination for shoppers seeking a relaxed environment. Another unique option is the Konak Pier Shopping Mall, a conversion of the historic Old Customs Building. Situated along the sea, it features numerous dining and beverage options with stunning waterfront views. While the concept and location are appealing, the mall feels somewhat underwhelming due to an inconsistent tenant mix.
Overall, Izmir’s retail market shows promise, supported by a growing economy and improved accessibility through the city’s expanding mass transit system. With increasing development, the city is gradually meeting the demands of its diverse and growing population.
Izmir’s Evolving Commercial Skyline
Over the past two decades, Izmir has undergone a significant transformation, with a surge in commercial activity reshaping its skyline through the development of modern office buildings. As of 2024, average office rents in Izmir stand at approximately $18 per square meter—roughly half the cost of similar spaces in Istanbul—positioning the city as an attractive alternative for businesses seeking quality office spaces at more competitive rates. Izmir’s venture into high-rise office development began in 2001 with Heris Tower, the city’s first prominent office high-rise. However, most of the city’s commercial real estate boom has taken place in the past decade, resulting in a series of iconic structures that now define its urban landscape.
One of the most notable additions is the Mistral Office Tower (map), a 48-floor mixed-use development that includes residential and hotel spaces. Not only is it a flagship project, but it also holds the distinction of being Turkey’s tallest building outside Istanbul, underscoring Izmir’s growing reputation as a commercial hub. Another standout project is the Novus Tower, completed in 2018, which offers a unique luxury feature: private balconies attached to many of its office units, blending functionality with an enhanced working experience.
Mixed-use developments have become a hallmark of Izmir’s evolving architectural scene. The Folkart Towers 1 & 2, each standing 40 floors tall, were once the city’s tallest buildings. These towers showcase an unconventional design approach: while higher floors in most mixed-use developments are reserved for premium residential units, the top levels of Folkart Towers are dedicated to office spaces, with residential areas occupying the lower floors.
Gross Domestic Product per Capita
High-end hotel sector growing in Izmir
İzmir province welcomed 1.6 million foreign visitors in the first 10 months of 2024, marking a 15.41% increase compared to the same period in 2023, according to data from the Culture and Tourism Ministry. Germany stood out as the leading source of international visitors, contributing 473,179 tourists during this period and highlighting the strong appeal of İzmir to European travellers.
As of the end of 2024, the supply of high-end hotel rooms in İzmir reached 1,871, a significant increase achieved over the past 12 years. This growth reflects İzmir’s evolution into a key business destination, while tourism remains a secondary focus. The city now boasts several branded hotels, many of which are integrated into mixed-use developments—a global trend that blends hospitality with retail and leisure facilities. Among the most notable is the Hyatt Regency İzmir İstinyePark, located next to what is arguably the city’s most attractive shopping mall.
Chart: Supply of Upper-scale hotel rooms in Izmir city
Residences in Izmir
In the last ten years, Izmir has experienced a surge of significant residential developments that have transformed the city’s skyline. The market is primarily driven by local buyers, with a slight decrease in foreign purchases in 2023. Foreign sales fell to 739 units this year, down from 1,322 in 2022, likely due to a reduction in Russian buyers following an initial increase at the beginning of the Russian-Ukraine conflict.
In 2023 Izmir represented around 2% of total foreign buyers in Turkey compared to 5% of total sales in the country. For foreigners Istanbul and the prime coastal region of Antalya remain the top choices. Coastal areas to the east of Izmir province, like the prestigious Çeşme beachfront, are significantly pricier than the city itself, with average prices around $2,900 per square metre.
Some of the city’s standout residential projects include Mahall Bomonti Izmir, which is built on the site of a historic brewery and features 457 residences along with a theatre. The Ege Perla Residence Tower, part of a mixed-use development near the port, and the iconic Folkart Towers 1 & 2, along with Folkart Vega (which has 795 units), are key examples of the city’s expanding residential landscape. Folkart Vega’s location just 700 meters from the sea enhances its appeal, offering both luxury and convenience in the heart of Izmir. Folkart Incity is a development located near Sanayi metro, offering convenient access to key areas of Izmir. Its modern design makes it a noteworthy addition to the city’s real estate landscape.
Izmir: The livable city
İzmir is a city full of contrasts and connections, where the echoes of history can be felt in ancient ruins, while modernity boldly showcases itself through sleek skyscrapers and vibrant shopping centres. With its changing commercial skyline, efficient public transport, and a growing cosmopolitan vibe, İzmir is establishing a distinct identity—progressive yet deeply rooted in its rich heritage that spans thousands of years.
The city’s beautiful bay serves as both its heart and its lifeline, linking various districts and creating a rhythm of life that harmonizes the bustling energy of urban life with the serene beauty of the coast. Whether viewed from a tram, a ferry, or the top of a high-rise building, İzmir presents a constantly shifting perspective, proving to be much more than just Turkey’s third-largest city. It’s a place where the past and future meet, and where visitors—whether for business, leisure, or to explore its essence—leave with the feeling that İzmir is a city confidently advancing toward its potential, always ready to surprise and inspire.
