SARANDA, ALBANIA
Saranda: Emerging as new coastal hotspot.
Want to experience the charm of Saranda? This coastal town blends stunning landscapes with a rich past, attracting visitors from across the Mediterranean.
The town of Saranda (in Albanian: Sarandë) is a prominent resort destination along the Albanian Riviera, situated just 14 kilometers from the Greek island of Corfu. It lies on an open sea gulf of the Ionian Sea, part of the Mediterranean. During the communist era, Saranda was primarily a quiet fishing village, with a few summer homes for officials. However, since the country opened up, particularly in the 2000s, the town has experienced significant growth, albeit with some fluctuations in the real estate market. Today, not only Albanians visit the coast, but also Greeks, residents from landlocked Macedonia and Kosovo, as well as Italians.
If you’re seeking a peaceful getaway, you might be disappointed, especially in the summer when the population swells from 30,000 to over 300,000. Over the past decade, the town has seen a significant increase in tourism, fast catching up with popular resorts in Greece, Croatia, and Montenegro. During peak season, it transforms into a lively party town, attracting both young people and families. Fortunately, I visited in June, just before the tourist rush, which meant it was relatively quiet, yet warm enough for a refreshing swim in the sea. The town also provides opportunities to explore the charming beach town of Ksamil and the UNESCO World Heritage site of Butrint, both easily reachable by public bus from the center of Saranda. Additionally, the coastal area is surrounded by hills, and if you’re up for it, you can escape the crowds and enjoy stunning views of the town below.
The town and its beaches
The town is small and easy to explore, featuring a coastal road that hosts most of the activity, along with other roads that lead further inland and uphill. Much of the coastline consists of private beaches belonging to hotels and restaurants, where visitors pay a fee to use deck chairs. The public beaches, located in the town center, are quite rocky, but once you navigate past the stones, the sea is inviting. It gets deep quickly, so be cautious if you’re not a strong swimmer. In the summer, they add sand to the beach, which can create a bit of a mess. The ideal times to visit are late spring and early autumn when the weather remains warm, but the crowds have thinned out.
The promenade comes alive in the evenings, with people of all ages enjoying leisurely strolls along the beachfront while indulging in ice creams. You’ll find the usual budget-friendly kebab shops alongside pricier fish restaurants, as well as several nightclubs further down the coast. The town offers a wide range of hotels and apartments to fit various budgets, with the pricier options typically providing private beach access. The more affordable accommodations are usually located a bit inland but are still just a short walk from the beach.
Real estate options in Saranda
I spent a week in a somewhat dilapidated apartment building, but the unit itself was quite comfortable, featuring a spacious balcony with stunning views. Most of the older buildings lack elevators, but they typically have only four stories. In the past decade, more upscale residential developments have emerged alongside older apartments from the communist era, many of which were poorly constructed after the regime’s fall in 1991. Compared to other Mediterranean countries like Croatia and Greece, property prices here are much more reasonable, with premium rates ranging from 2,000 to 3,000 Euros per square meter. Additionally, an airport is being constructed in Saranda, which will allow visitors to bypass Tirana, and Albania is a candidate for EU membership, suggesting that property prices may rise even further.
A notable advantage of owning property in Albania is that foreigners can obtain a residence permit through property purchase, as stated in Article 84 of the Foreigners Act No. 79/2021. Currently, there is no minimum purchase requirement, but ownership must exceed 50%. Citizens from visa-exempt countries can enter Albania with a valid passport and stay for up to 90 days within a 180-day period, making it an accessible option for a second home.
Living in Saranda
You can find a variety of small supermarkets throughout the town, though their selection is somewhat limited. However, they do offer an interesting assortment of Greek products that might not be available in Tirana due to the closer proximity. One of the better choices is Supermarket Alfa on Rruga Abedin Dino, which is likely the largest in the area. The town lacks shopping malls of any size, which could be seen as either a blessing or a curse, depending on your perspective. There are plenty of good food options at reasonable prices just a short walk from the coast. You can often find affordable snacks like the popular burek, a savory pastry with many different fillings. Additionally, there are many cozy coffee shops where you can relax.
Ksamil
About 13 kilometers from Saranda lies the smaller and supposedly more exclusive resort town of Ksamil. This area features a variety of small coves and bays that host private beaches. While the town may have once catered to a more luxurious clientele, a rapid construction boom over the past decade has transformed Ksamil into a smaller version of its larger neighbor. The bays are indeed more picturesque, but they are now packed to the rafters with sunseekers in deck chairs. It’s worth taking a half-day trip using the local bus, as there are plenty of dining and drinking options available. You can also explore some walking paths that lead to more secluded parts of the town, particularly a charming area by an inlet.
If you take the local bus to Butrint, you can easily combine both destinations in a single day trip, although it can be quite exhausting during the hot summer months if you want to fully explore each location.
Butrint
Butrint is a UNESCO World Heritage site and national park that boasts a rich history as an ancient city during the Greek, Roman, and Byzantine eras. Unfortunately, it fell into neglect during the Middle Ages due to malaria and damage from an earthquake. Today, the archaeological site is one of Albania’s most renowned attractions, featuring an impressive Roman amphitheater and a Byzantine basilica, which is the largest in the world after Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. Visitors can explore numerous other ruins and artifacts, making it worthwhile to spend a few hours here. The site is pleasantly shaded by trees and is surrounded by a beautiful lake. There is one hotel on-site, along with several small cafes. As of 2024, the entrance fee for foreigners is 1,000 lek (approximately 11 USD). I took the local bus from Saranda, passing through Ksamil and terminates very close to the entrance of the site. For more information, you can visit https://www.butrintfoundation.co.uk. A word of caution: since Butrint is near the Greek border, your mobile phone may switch to a Greek carrier, potentially leading to unexpected roaming charges.
Travel tips for Saranda
There are regular buses and minibuses from Tirana to Saranda, typically taking the inland route after passing through Durres, with a travel time of about five hours. At the southern bus terminal in Tirana, there is a ticket office at the front as of 2021. However, like much of Albania, finding a bus to Tirana can be quite chaotic, often requiring assistance from ticket sellers. The summer journey can be particularly tough due to poor ventilation and minimal air-conditioning in minibuses. While Albania boasts impressive new highways, the vehicles traveling on them often leave much to be desired.
In Saranda, there isn’t a dedicated bus station, but all intercity buses stop at the intersection of Rruga Onhezmi and Rruga Flamurit, near Friendship Park in the town center. A ticket office is located next door. There are also buses to Gjirokaster and Vlora, though these services are less frequent and depend on demand. The local bus stop for routes heading along the coast to Butrint and Ksamil is about 50 meters to the south.
Getting around Saranda
The town is quite small, making it easy to explore Saranda on foot. A stroll along the coastal road, which stretches less than four kilometers to the town’s edge, takes about an hour at a relaxed pace. There’s an hourly bus service from the center of Saranda that travels along the coast, continuing to the smaller resort town of Ksamil and eventually reaching Butrint, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This bus is very popular, particularly between Saranda and Ksamil, so it’s best to board at the terminal stop on Rruga Jonianet (refer to the map). As of 2024 the fare is 200 lek (2.20 USD), with tickets available for purchase on the bus from the conductor.
Chart: Sunshine/rainy days average in Saranda
