CHEFCHAOUEN, MOROCCO
Time for the blues in Chefchaouen
A small town in Morocco offers a unique and literally colourful visitor experience.
Chefchaouen, nestled in the mountainous region of northwest Morocco, is known as the ‘Blue City’ for good reason. Much of the town is painted in various shades of blue, a choice influenced by its recent history rather than ancient traditions. Founded in 1471 as a small kasbah to protect against Portuguese invasions, it later became a refuge for various groups escaping turmoil in Spain, thriving both financially and culturally. Although it was eventually conquered by Spain, Chefchaouen became part of independent Morocco in 1956. Today, the town is situated in the province that shares its name.
Why is Chefchaouen blue?
The reason behind Chefchaouen’s blue hue isn’t definitively known, but there are several plausible theories. It’s likely a combination of factors that led to the town’s gradual transformation into a blue expanse rather than a sudden change. One of the most widely accepted theories suggests that before World War II, the rapidly growing Jewish community, seeking refuge from Nazi persecution, began painting their homes blue as a religious practice. This colour symbolizes the sky, creating a connection to heaven and their deity. Over time, more residents embraced this tradition, and it eventually became advantageous to paint the entire old city blue to attract tourists. The historical district, particularly the medina, showcases the most vibrant blue, while the modern parts of town also feature the colour, albeit to a lesser degree. In the spring, just before the tourist season kicks off, many homes in the centre are repainted. It’s nearly impossible to take a bad photo here, and the entire town—along with its many cats—seems perfectly curated for Instagram!
Balancing Tourism and Tradition in a Historic Walled Town
The city features a Medina, the historical walled town that serves as the main attraction for tourists, alongside a newer area that has developed outside the old city walls. The municipality has a population of approximately 43,000. Agriculture plays a significant role in the economy of the Chefchaouen province, which is particularly known for its extensive pastoral activities, with olives being the primary crop. Tourism is mainly seasonal, and in addition to its famous blue buildings, the area is also known as a cannabis haven, as the plant is cultivated throughout the nearby mountains. There are about 200 hotels in the town, though many are small homestays with a limited number of rooms. Like much of Morocco, a popular type of accommodation is the riad, which is a traditional Moroccan house or palace featuring an indoor garden and courtyard, often used as a restaurant. The hotels offer a very personalized experience, with no international brands available. One of the most luxurious options is the Taj Chefchaouen Luxury Hotel and Spa, although it is not affiliated with the Taj brand.
The town sits 600 meters up the foothills of the Rif Mountains, where the summer evenings bring a slight coolness. It’s definitely worth spending a couple of days here, not just to explore the tourism-focused medina but also to wander through the steep streets that offer stunning panoramic views of the town and the surrounding mountains. You’ll find plenty of restaurants aimed at tourists, and even the medina has some decent dining options, though prices can be high, so it’s wise to compare for better deals. There are also many typical Moroccan coffee shops where you can relax and break up a long day of walking.
Examining the Real Estate Market and Accessibility in Chefchaouen
There are apartments and individual homes for sale both in the town centre and on the outskirts, with regulations for foreigners purchasing residential property being quite relaxed. Prices vary from approximately 500 euros per square meter to about 1,500 euros per square meter, depending on the location and quality of the property. This presents a great opportunity for a vacation home, especially since winters here are milder than in much of Europe. Additionally, owning property could assist in obtaining Moroccan residency.
Reaching Chefchaouen is quite straightforward by bus, even though there are no train connections. Most likely, like I did, you’ll arrive from Tangier and then head to Fes or vice versa. The journey from Tangier takes about two hours, but you might need to change buses in Tetouan, which can add another 30 minutes to your trip. Fes is around four to five hours away if you take a direct bus. I travelled with CTM buses for my trips around Morocco and found them to be reliable and reasonably priced. Their website can be found here , but it can be a bit frustrating since it’s only available in French. Keep in mind that the bus station is located in the lower part of the city, while most accommodations are situated higher up, so it’s best to take a taxi or, if you have limited luggage, walk up the steep roads like I did. Getting around town is easy, although be prepared for some steep walks.
