Kyrgyzstan

BALYKCHY, KYRGYZSTAN Balykchy: Where the past is still present A graphic example of a town still struggling to move on from its past – over 35 years ago Plyazh Aliya, Balykchy Balykchy, a small town on the western tip of Issyk-Kul Lake in Kyrgyzstan, serves as a common starting point for travellers journeying from Almaty or Bishkek to the lake. Located 175 km southwest of Bishkek, it sits at an elevation of approximately 1,900 meters. Historically known as Rybachye (Russian for “fisherman”), the town’s Kyrgyz name carries the same meaning, reflecting its origins as a fishing hub. Once a key centre for the lake’s fishing fleet, agro-industrial activities, and logistics, Balykchy’s economy and infrastructure have declined significantly since the collapse of the Soviet Union. Today, the town is home to around 50,000 people, with about 90% identifying as Kyrgyz and 7% as Russian. During my two-day visit, I found Balykchy still searching for a new identity. One of its few modern attractions is its role as the terminus for the scenic train route from Bishkek—a modest claim to fame for a town with a rich but fading past. Lenin lives on in abandoned factory Lenin’s legacy A major industrial and transport centre during the Soviet era with a focus on the wool and food processing, especially grain. However, following the collapse of the Soviet Union, the town lost much of its economic base, with the closure of nearly all its industrial and logistics facilities. Like many industrial cities in Central Asia, Soviet nostalgia lives on, with much of its former glory tied to that period. Lenin’s portrait remains well preserved on one derelict factory I visited. Unlike more developed cities where former industrial areas like docks have been converted to thriving new neighbourhoods, much of Balykchy’s port area remains a state of decay with no clear path for revitalization.  The town’s population has largely stagnated in recent decades, reflecting the broader challenges faced by many post-Soviet industrial centres. Centre of Balykchy town Balykchy: A town in search of a new identity Balykchy presents a unique blend of rustbelt grit and rustic simplicity. The town centre is a hardscrabble patchwork of modest markets focused on metalwork, machinery, and other small-scale trades, reflecting its industrial past. This starkly contrasts with the vast grazing lands and open spaces that surround Issyk-Kul Lake, offering a glimpse into the region’s pastoral heritage. Unlike the more cosmopolitan capital of Bishkek, Balykchy offers few comforts for the modern traveller. During my visit, finding a decent cup of coffee was a challenge—there was only one place that served lattes, and ice was a rarity, available only on one of my two attempts. The absence of a developed café culture is striking, especially when compared to places like Vietnam or Morocco, where even small towns offer inviting cafés as a respite from wandering the streets. Accommodation in Balykchy is primarily limited to homestays, which typically include a basic breakfast. Dining options are concentrated near the market, but they tend to be utilitarian rather than inviting. For travellers accustomed to more vibrant food scenes, the local eateries may feel underwhelming. Despite this, Balykchy offers a glimpse into a slower, less polished side of Central Asia—a town still navigating the transition from its Soviet industrial roots to an uncertain future. Grazing by Issyk-Kul lake in Balykchy The limping economy Balykchy’s name, derived from the word for “fishing,” reflects its early economic foundation as the main port for fishermen on Issyk-Kul Lake. In the early 20th century, the town thrived as a hub for the fishing industry, but overfishing during the Soviet era, combined with the introduction of non-native species, disrupted the lake’s ecological balance. Local demand keeps the industry just about afloat. Today, vendors line the main road selling smoked fish from the lake, a popular product consumed by residents and passing visitors. However, even some of this fish is known to be imported from China. The unique climate of the region, shaped by the never-freezing lake and the surrounding high mountains, has made the area ideal for horticulture. The Issyk-Kul region’s fresh fruits, particularly apples and apricots, are renowned for their distinctive taste, thanks to the region’s climate. Each year, around 30,000 tonnes of apples and 10,000 tonnes of apricots are produced and sold. Given Balykchy’s renowned high winds the region also holds potential for renewable energy, particularly wind power, with vast open land and favourable conditions, though development has been slow. Industrial activity in Balykchy has seen some modest growth in recent years. The town’s industrial output rose from nearly USD2.5 million in 2014 to USD3.3 million in 2018. However, much of its former industrial base, such as its grain processing and storage and wool industry, has languished. The town’s imperious grain silos operate at limited capacity or not at all, and the wool industry has been decimated due to competition from abroad. Although ship repair continues, it is a shadow of its former self, as the decline in fishing and marine activities has led to the diminishing need for such services. Balykchy does hold potential as a logistics hub, thanks to its strategic location along the highway connecting Bishkek to Torugart which borders China. The town hosts several oil depots, food and coal warehouses, and large electrical substations, making it an important link in regional trade. However, despite these advantages, the town’s development is hampered by a lack of investment, leaving it in a state of limbo, far from realizing its full potential. Balykchy continues to exist as a fading remnant of its once-vibrant industrial past, struggling to define its place in the future. Shipyard In front of grain storage facility Dried fish stall on highway in Balykchy After gaining independence, the tourism industry around Issyk-Kul struggled, but in recent years, visitors have started to return, particularly from other parts of Kyrgyzstan, Russia, and landlocked Kazakhstan. However, most travelers bypass Balykchy in favor of more popular destinations like Cholpon-Ata on the northern shore or the area near