Kazakhstan

TURKISTAN, KAZAKHSTAN Turkistan’s Modern Makeover One of the key cities during the Asian Silk Road period is reinventing itself Karavansaray Entertainment Complex The city of Turkistan (also spelled Turkestan), meaning “land of the Turks,” is located in southern-central Kazakhstan and stands as one of the region’s most historically significant and rapidly developing cities. Positioned closer to Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan, than to either Almaty or Astana in Kazakhstan, Turkistan has a diverse population of approximately 224,000, nearly half of whom are of Uzbek ethnicity.The city’s primary challenge lies in balancing its remarkable historical legacy with its aspirations for modern development. Originally, I expected my visit to focus on Turkistan’s influential role along the Great Silk Road and its rich spiritual and economic history. However, I found myself drawn more to the transformations occurring since 2018, when the Kazakh government initiated significant revitalization efforts. These initiatives aim to accommodate a projected population of 500,000 by 2050 and position Turkistan as a dynamic hub for the broader region. Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi (left) A Historic Legacy Guiding Turkistan’s Growth Archaeological evidence shows that the region now known as Turkistan dates back to the 4th century, with the formal settlement established by nomadic groups in 490. Historically referred to as “Yasy,” the city’s prominence grew significantly due to its location along the Great Silk Road. This strategic positioning facilitated Turkistan’s development into a thriving center for art, science, and global trade. A pivotal figure in the city’s cultural evolution was the esteemed Sufi thinker, poet, and mystic Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, who made Yasy the focal point of his preaching. His influence in the region transformed the city into a major destination for Islamic learning and spiritual reflection, earning it the moniker “the second Mecca” within the Muslim world. Today, Yasawi is interred in the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, which remains the city’s most significant structure. Recognizing its historical value, the mausoleum was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2003. In addition to Yasawi, 21 Kazakh khans and eight sultans are also buried in the city, further cementing its role as a historical and cultural epicenter. Known as the spiritual capital of the Turkic world by the Cooperation Council of Turkic-Speaking States, Turkistan attracts thousands of pilgrims annually. A local tradition holds that visiting the city three times is equivalent to one pilgrimage to Mecca, underscoring its religious importance to the Kazakh steppes and the wider Turkic region. Former glories The decline of the Great Silk Road, spurred by wars and the rise of maritime trade routes, gradually diminished Turkistan’s significance as a thriving caravanserai town where traders once rested, shared ideas, and exchanged goods. Over time, Turkistan transformed from a bustling hub of activity into a quieter waypoint, leaving behind traces of its former glory. While Turkistan’s historical appeal remains, today’s visitor might find the city’s offerings modest compared to the lively souks or bustling medinas of other destinations. The historic core is small, with key attractions, including the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi and a compact underground mosque, located a few kilometers from the town center. For just 500 tenge (about 1.25 USD), a joint ticket grants access to both, but these sites may only require a brief visit for casual tourists. Picking up the left overs Turkistan’s Modernization Turkistan offers limited tourist attractions, and much of the city lacks vibrancy, apart from the activity on its western side, where affordable accommodations are more readily available, a few kilometers from the historic core. To revitalize the historical area, considerable efforts have been made to enhance its appeal, including the creation of scenic parks, a camel-riding area, and a range of new lodging and entertainment options. The centerpiece of these efforts is the Karavansaray Turkistan Tourist Complex, featuring a striking shopping center designed to attract visitors. While at first, these modern additions may appear to dilute the city’s legacy, their development was seen as necessary to reinvigorate Turkistan’s role in the region. The push for modernization began in 2018, when Shymkent—previously the largest city in the South Kazakhstan Region—was placed under direct governance by Kazakhstan. This reorganization elevated Turkistan to the status of regional administrative center, leading to the renaming of the area as Turkistan Region. This region remains one of the poorest in Kazakhstan, with a once-powerful cotton industry that has waned significantly over the last century due to Russian dominance in large-scale trading operations. However, it is home to the country’s largest uranium reserves, and over the past five years, industrial output has more than doubled, driven by mining and metallurgy manufacturing. The modernization of Turkistan aims to leverage these resources and bring new economic vitality to the city, establishing it as a cultural and industrial focal point in Kazakhstan. Karavansaray Turkistan Tourist Complex Remembering the past The “Special” new growth drivers The primary elements of Turkistan’s growth strategy are integrated under the framework of a Special Economic Zone (SEZ), providing significant tax incentives to spur development. This SEZ includes an international airport built in 2020, though currently limited in flight availability, along with three industrial zones—one of which hosts an established tenant base—and the complex encompassing the historical sites. Notably, this SEZ extends beyond industry to support tourism and cultural areas, making it one of the most generous SEZ initiatives globally. The Karavansaray Turkistan Tourist Complex, a short walk from the historical sites, adds an extended dimension to the visitor experience. Named after the historic caravanserais that dotted ancient trade routes across Asia, the complex centers around an expansive shopping center complete with a canal and lake. It also hosts several high-end hotels, along with a selection of attractive two- to three-level residential buildings, aimed at buyers seeking close proximity to the area’s amenities. Despite its striking design and the welcome relief it provides from the desert heat, the complex felt underutilized during a weekday visit. Most stores cater to high-end fashion, with food and beverage options limited. Most are poorly located and with

ASTANA, KAZAKHSTAN Astana’s Rise: Where Substance Meets Style Astana, Kazakhstan’s capital since 1997, has transformed from a futuristic architectural experiment into a vibrant, rapidly growing city. With striking designs and increasing energy, it’s becoming a dynamic, functional hub on the global stage Bayterek Tower in the centre Astana has been Kazakhstan’s capital since 1997, and in that time, it has rapidly transformed into a city known not just for its striking skyline but also for its burgeoning energy. While it once might have been dismissed as an architectural oddity, with comparisons to Dubai for its futuristic design, today Astana’s vibrancy rivals that of Almaty, the country’s commercial powerhouse. In the past, it was easy for outsiders to view Astana as more spectacle than substance. A 2015 article in The Guardian even dubbed it a “toy-city,” a sentiment shared by many observers at the time. New capitals often face mixed reviews. I’ve seen both ends of the spectrum myself—while Ankara impressed me with its blend of tradition and modernity, Brasilia felt oddly disconnected from the essence of Brazil, and Naypyidaw, Myanmar’s capital, seemed more surreal than functional, with its eerie, empty 20-lane highway as its centerpiece. But Astana breaks this mold. It’s not just the bold, sometimes quirky architecture that makes it stand out; it’s the fact that these buildings form the backdrop to a city that is becoming genuinely lively, increasingly functional, and home to nearly 1.5 million people. The packed buses during rush hour and the sprawling residential developments tell the real story of its growth. Despite its rapid development, Astana isn’t without quirks that make it easy to poke fun at. The city holds the unusual distinction of having undergone the most name changes of any capital in the world. Starting as Akmolinsk, evolving to Tselinograd and then Aqmola, it became simply Astana—which translates to “capital” in Kazakh—in 1997. But in 2019, the name was changed to Nur-Sultan, in honor of the country’s long-serving president after his retirement. By 2022, it reverted back to Astana, reflecting Kazakhstan’s effort to balance legacy with a forward-looking identity. The confusion lingers, though—train tickets and maps sometimes show both names. On one ticket, I arrived in Astana; on another, I departed from Nur-Sultan—yet both took me to the same station. Atyrau Bridge Diverse growth drivers power Astana’s expansion Astana’s office market is booming, with 1.158 million sqm of Grade B and above office space, not far behind Almaty’s 1.165 million sqm, according to Cushman & Wakefield. The city’s office spaces are home to tenants from various sectors, including mining, energy, transport and a rapidly expanding IT industry, heavily supported by government initiatives. While wealth in many countries tends to concentrate in commercial capitals, Kazakhstan’s resource-rich landscape spreads wealth generation across the country. Astana plays a crucial role as a commercial hub for industries operating in the north and east, including mining in ƒnearby Karaganda region. Industrial production is also a key player, with factories on the city’s outskirts focusing on food processing and construction materials. Astana’s economic growth is evident in its ongoing construction boom, including a 21.5 km metro system that will connect the airport, new train station, and city center. Inbound investment is largely concentrated in real estate and transport infrastructure, sectors critical to supporting the city’s rapid expansion. Construction of Almaty metro (2024) Visitors to Astana will notice the 97-meter Bayterek Tower, a central landmark that defines the skyline. While the views from the top are popular with tourists, the tower’s yellow-tinted windows can slightly detract from the experience. It does make for a great crown like selfie! Beyond the Bayterek Tower, Astana’s cityscape includes a mix of functional and architecturally distinctive buildings that reflect its rapid modernization. Unlike many vanity projects elsewhere, these structures serve a practical purpose, supporting the city’s growing status as a regional hub. Wearing the crown Stolichny Circus Grade A Towers in Astana: The City’s Business Backbone Astana’s skyline is dominated by modern office towers that reflect the city’s rapid development. The tallest of them all, Abu Dhabi Plaza, stands at 311 meters and is directly connected to the upcoming metro line, slated for completion by 2026. Alongside Abu Dhabi Plaza is Talan Tower, both are classified as Grade A office spaces. These buildings are part of multi-use developments, combining luxury hotels and office spaces for international corporations. Abu Dhabi Plaza Talan Towers Near the iconic Baiterek Monument, you’ll find the Emerald Towers, a striking architectural feature of Astana. These towers, designed by Canadian architect Roy Varacalli, display a unique asymmetry. Originally planned as a trio, only two towers were completed due to the 2008 financial crisis, but they still stand tall at 201 meters and 180 meters. The tallest tower houses KazMunayGas, Kazakhstan’s national oil and gas company. Nearby, the Kazakhstan Temir Zholy Towers is the headquarters of Kazakhstan’s national railway company. One of the earlier additions to Astana’s skyline is the Astana Tower, which marked the beginning of the city’s architectural evolution. Temer Zholy Tower & Emerald Tower Almaty Tower Astana Shopping: Where Winter Meets Warmth During my visit, temperatures ranged from 20 to 32 degrees Celsius, making it pleasant to stroll along Astana’s wide boulevards. However, the city’s long winters are a different story—Astana is the second coldest capital in the world after Ulaanbaatar, with temperatures plunging to -35 degrees. As a result, large indoor spaces are essential, offering not only sports facilities but also a wide range of international-quality shopping centers. The entrances to many of these malls may appear somewhat austere, often featuring fire doors instead of welcoming sliding glass, but this design makes perfect sense given the brutal winter conditions. Typical door entrance to mall Keruen shopping mall One standout is the Khan Shatyr shopping mall, one of the most unique retail centers I’ve visited. Designed by Norman Foster and completed in 2006, its 90-meter-high tent structure adds a dramatic flair to Astana’s skyline, especially when illuminated in vibrant colors at night. Inside, you’ll find everything from