TASHKENT, UZBEKISTAN
Tashkent: Burst of modernity reshaping the city from its Soviet legacy
Reform to Uzbekistan's economy from 2017 has started to make an impact on the country's capital and main commercial centre
Tashkent, also referred to as Toshkent, serves as the capital and the largest city of Uzbekistan. As of 2024, it stands as the most populous city in Central Asia, housing over three million residents. Tashkent city itself is considered a region of Uzbekistan although is mostly surrounded, confusingly, by Tashkent region. The city has faced significant destruction, first at the hands of Genghis Khan in 1219 and later due to natural disasters. A substantial portion of Tashkent was devastated during the 1966 earthquake, but it was subsequently reconstructed as a quintessential Soviet city. The remnants of this Soviet heritage have persisted, as the nation has approached economic reform with caution, prioritizing stability and limiting foreign investment in real estate, which has left Tashkent somewhat stagnant. However, the introduction of new reforms in 2016 has revitalized the economy, attracting both domestic and international investors, as well as boosting tourism. This resurgence is now evident in the emergence of modern international-grade offices, residential complexes, hotels, and shopping centres throughout the city.
Destruction and revitalisation
I travelled to Tashkent in September 2024, marking my initial destination in Uzbekistan after crossing the border from Shymkent in Kazakhstan. The city is approximately a 45-minute bus journey from the bustling border area. Due to a significant earthquake, there are few tourist attractions from the Silk Road era, with most sites originating from the Soviet period. Although the earthquake registered a magnitude of 5.2, its epicentre was in the heart of the city, resulting in extensive destruction and irreparable damage to numerous buildings. A comprehensive reconstruction effort ensued, transforming Tashkent into a prominent example of the Soviet system, as it was the fourth largest city in the Soviet Union. For visitors, the most notable attraction is not a single edifice but rather the intricate network of underground structures that form the metro system.
Tashkent’s metro marvel
The metro system, initially constructed in Central Asia and currently one of only two in the region (the other being in Almaty), commenced construction on its first line in 1972 and officially opened on November 6, 1977, featuring nine stations. It has since expanded to include 50 stations following the introduction of the Circle Line, which operates above ground. The tunnels of the metro vary in depth from 8 to 25 meters, resulting in relatively short stairways leading from the entrances to the concourse. Originally designed to serve as a bomb shelter in the event of a nuclear attack, the metro’s military significance led to a ban on photography until as late as 2018. Each station showcases unique artworks and is themed accordingly. The metro has evolved into a notable tourist attraction, often frequented by package tourists guided by he ubiquitous flag.
Among the many stations I visited, Kosmonavtlar station stands out, honouring Soviet cosmonauts from the 1960s and 1970s. In the city centre, the stations and trains can become quite crowded, making them best avoided during peak hours. An unexpected influx of a large tour groups onto a train can create a stir. Ticket prices are very affordable, and passengers can use a credit or debit card chip; for frequent travellers, acquiring a stored value ATTO card is recommended which can also be used on many other transport systems in the country. There is also an ATTO app, but it is useless for most of Uzbekistan urban transport. Cash payments for individual tokens are also accepted, with a fixed fare structure in place.
Tashkent’s Soviet legacy
Other intriguing structures from the Soviet era can be found alongside the expansive boulevards and charming parks. One particularly striking building is the Uzbekistan Hotel, whose brutalist architecture immediately suggests it was a luxury hotel during the communist era, likely serving as a gathering spot for visiting officials, diplomats, and perhaps even a few spies! The interior, however, is less grand, featuring a somewhat outdated reception area and a more modern, albeit gaudy, coffee shop.
Another notable yet gradually declining attraction is the Sirk (state circus). Once a popular entertainment option in English seaside towns and the Soviet Union, it has lost much of its former appeal, serving as a prime example of this decline. While entry is not permitted and events may still occur occasionally, the focus has shifted to illuminating the building at night. This site is located near the Chorsu Bazaar, which resembles markets worldwide by selling Chinese-made goods, with a circular structure reminiscent of the circus at its centre. Overall, the market is bustling but lacks character, making it worth a brief visit since it’s nearby. Also in the vicinity is a poorly executed redevelopment of the old city, showcasing some of the worst examples of pastiche I’ve seen.
A fascinating residential building known as the Zhemchug (pearl) features architecture inspired by the Central Asian makhalla (community) concept, with homes arranged around a communal courtyard. The apartments are organized around three-story suspended courtyards, allowing residents to embrace a collective lifestyle within extended family units. A must-see is the Tashkent TV Tower, built in 1985, which offers stunning views of the city and its surroundings, along with a quirky collection of cassette tape recorders.
The Rise of Tourism in Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan, once a challenging travel destination due to strict visa regulations and its remote location, is gradually becoming more accessible. The country began to open up at the end of the last decade, particularly after the passing of long-time leader Islam Karimov in 2016, which has spurred an increase in tourist interest, although the Covid pandemic has significantly impacted this growth.
Chart - Visitors to Uzbekistan
Most travellers will at least stop in Tashkent, spending a day or two in the capital before exploring further. In 2023, foreign tourist arrivals in Uzbekistan nearly matched the levels seen in 2019 before the pandemic. Overall, around 6.6 million visitors came to the country, with over 90% hailing from the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS), which includes 11 countries, predominantly Russia. Notably, about 90% of these visitors were there to see family rather than for leisure or sightseeing. The neighbouring Central Asian countries contributed the vast majority of these visitors. Among non-CIS tourists, 64% visited for sightseeing in 2023, with South Korea leading the way with 37,000 visitors. Turkey used to be the major non-CIS market but saw a significant decline following the devaluation of its local currency.
Tashkent benefitting from economic growth
Uzbekistan began extensive reforms in 2017, signalling a major shift from a centrally planned, state-driven economy to a more sustainable and inclusive market economy. In 2023, Tashkent city accounted for 17% of the country’s GDP, and when the Tashkent region is included, that figure rises to 27%. However, despite its dominance, the industrial powerhouse region of Navoi boasts a per capita Gross Domestic Regional Product that exceeds Tashkent’s by more than a quarter.
The economy’s rapid growth has noticeably transformed the city, marked by the emergence of new international-grade office buildings that are changing the skyline. One sector that has thrived is financial services, which in Tashkent city has more than doubled in dollar terms from 2017 to 2023. Additionally, multinationals are increasingly eyeing Uzbekistan, among other countries, as the investment climate has significantly improved, making it an attractive alternative for operations following the Russian-Ukraine war.
Chart: Financial services output in Tashkent City
Growing Inventory, Growing Expectations: Office Space Trends
The recent office buildings demonstrate a significant enhancement in quality, approaching and even achieving international standards to meet the growing and more selective demand. However, a downside is that most office developers opt to sell individual spaces and floors instead of leasing them. This approach provides a strong initial return but can lead to challenges in maintaining the buildings and may impose future restrictions on products that could bolster emerging capital markets in the country.
Most of the grade A and B buildings are situated either around the attractive Tashkent City Park or about 1,500 meters to the east, in an area north of Amir Temur Square. The largest mixed-use development is the International Business Center “Tashkent City,” which spans 80 hectares surrounding the park and is being developed through Uzbek/Turkish investment. Many of the planned office buildings have already been completed, including the Summit Business Center, the Agrobank Building as part of the Central Plaza mixed-use development, and Nest One, which combines office and residential spaces. To the south of Tashkent City Park, you can find Asaka Tower, BOMI Tower, and the high-rise building of Sanoat Qurilish Bank JSCB.
The most interesting development to the east is Trilliant Business Center consists of two office towers along with the Intercontinental Hotel. A short walk north will take you to the Orient Business Center completed in 2021 and DIM Tower. There are some outlier offices to the south of the city with the most architecturally prominent being Piramit Tower and the twin Moderna Towers.
Tashkent’s retail landscape is finally improving
Tashkent city accounts for over a quarter of the country’s retail spending. In 2023, approximately 6.5 billion US dollars were spent, rising to 8.85 billion when including the Tashkent region. This increase in spending has been notable since the economic reforms began in 2017. However, the city has long been lacking in modern retail options, with only a few outdated and poorly managed malls. That changed in 2024 with the launch of Tashkent City Mall, which serves as a retail hub for the International Business Center “Tashkent City.” The mall boasts a total area of 245,000 sqm and a leasable space of 100,000 sqm, featuring around 300 retail units and a direct connection to the metro. It stands out impressively, rivalling the top retail experiences found in Kazakhstan and Turkey. The luxury car displays throughout the mall are particularly striking and have proven to be a hit with visitors. More food and beverage options would be appreciated, as this is a trend occurring worldwide.
Tashkent’s growing high end hotel supply and residences
Since the mid-2010s, there has been a notable increase in the availability of high-end hotel rooms designed for both business and leisure travellers. Well-known brands are now making their mark on Tashkent’s rapidly growing skyline. In line with global trends, many of these hotels are part of prestigious mixed-use developments, such as the Hilton located within the International Business Center “Tashkent City,” and the Fairmont, which is set to open in 2025 within the same complex. For most visitors, lower-grade hotels are the main option, offering reasonable value for money, and many of these are being introduced to the market. Due to the current guest registration requirements in Uzbekistan, there are fewer apartments available for short-term stays compared to Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, making it more challenging to experience everyday life in the city.
Chart - Supply of Upper-scale and Luxury hotel rooms in Tashkent
There are more high-end residences being built, but the majority are mid-level buildings like the Garden Residence. One of the most intriguing residential designs is the Akay Residence located in the eastern part of the city, known for its sharp-edged architecture. Although Tashkent may not provide the traditional Central Asian atmosphere found in Bukhara, it stands out as a prime example of a Soviet showcase city, for better or worse, and has recently undergone a transformation into a modern city with all that this entails and a welcome break from the far more disheartening towns in the country.
Travel Tips for Tashkent
Tashkent offers affordable and efficient transportation options. The elegant metro system, complemented by an extensive bus network, makes getting around the city easy. I found Yandex Maps particularly helpful for navigating bus routes. However, avoid traveling during rush hour, as it can be very hectic, with crowded carriages and buses.
Don’t miss the new Circle Line, which covers the southern part of the city. This overground route offers unique views of Tashkent’s more industrial areas.
While the airport is conveniently close to the city, it is not connected to the metro. A taxi is the best option, and Yandex is a reliable app for arranging rides throughout Uzbekistan.
For intercity travel, trains depart from Tashkent’s main station, which is easily accessible from the metro.
Visitors to Uzbekistan should be aware of the legal requirement to collect registration slips from their accommodations. All the hotels I stayed at provided these, though immigration officials at the airport didn’t check them when I departed.
If traveling to Tashkent from Shymkent, Kazakhstan, consider taking the city bus from the border rather than an expensive taxi. Payments can often be made in cash or via debit/credit cards with a chip. I used a Wise card, which offered low currency conversion fees and no transaction charges.
Be careful when paying bills as there is usually a steep service charge despite ofen poor service. The standard rate is 15% although one restaurant charged 20%.
