UZBEKISTAN
Tashkent: Soviet legacy and modern transformation in Uzbekistan’s capital
Economic reforms since 2017 are reshaping Uzbekistan’s capital and commercial centre
Economic reforms since 2017 are reshaping Uzbekistan’s capital and commercial centre Tashkent, also known as Toshkent, is the capital and largest city of Uzbekistan, as well as the most populous city in Central Asia with more than three million residents. Unlike the Silk Road cities of Samarkand and Bukhara, Tashkent is defined less by ancient architecture and more by its Soviet legacy and rapid modern transformation.
Much of the modern city emerged after the devastating 1966 earthquake, which destroyed large parts of the centre and led to Tashkent being rebuilt as one of the Soviet Union’s showcase cities. Wide boulevards, monumental public buildings and modernist planning still dominate much of the capital today.
For decades, Uzbekistan pursued economic reform cautiously, leaving Tashkent relatively stagnant compared with many other emerging capitals. However, reforms introduced after 2016 have accelerated economic growth, tourism and foreign investment. The result is a city where Soviet-era landmarks increasingly sit beside modern office towers, luxury hotels and international-standard shopping malls, reflecting Uzbekistan’s broader attempt to reposition itself within the global economy.
Tashkent at a glance
- Rebuilt after the devastating 1966 earthquake into one of the Soviet Union’s showcase cities
- Home to Central Asia’s most impressive metro system, famous for its Soviet-era themed stations
- Rapid economic reforms since 2017 are reshaping the skyline with new offices, malls & mixed-use developments
- Combines Soviet monumentalism and brutalist landmarks with emerging modern consumer culture
- Less Silk Road romanticism than Samarkand or Bukhara, but offers a more revealing look at modern Uzbekistan
Rebuilt as a Soviet showcase city
I arrived in Tashkent after crossing the border from Shymkent in Kazakhstan, with the journey from the frontier taking around 45 minutes by bus. For many travellers, Uzbekistan is associated with Silk Road cities such as Samarkand and Bukhara, but Tashkent feels very different. Much of the historic city disappeared after the devastating 1966 earthquake, which struck directly beneath the centre of the capital and caused widespread destruction despite registering only 5.2 in magnitude.
The reconstruction that followed transformed Tashkent into one of the Soviet Union’s model cities. As the fourth-largest city in the USSR, the capital was rebuilt with monumental avenues, parks and modernist architecture intended to showcase Soviet planning and engineering. Today, much of Tashkent’s identity still comes from this period rather than from the older Central Asian heritage found elsewhere in Uzbekistan.
The clearest example of this legacy is the Tashkent Metro, which remains the city’s standout attraction and one of the most visually impressive metro systems in the former Soviet world. Beyond its transport function, the network reflects the era’s obsession with monumental public infrastructure, political symbolism and civil defence planning.
Above ground, Soviet-era landmarks continue to define much of the cityscape. One of the most recognisable is the Hotel Uzbekistan [map], whose vast brutalist façade still dominates Amir Temur Square. The building immediately evokes the image of a late-Soviet luxury hotel for officials, diplomats and visiting delegations, although the ageing interior now feels more nostalgic than prestigious.
Nearby, the Sirk (State Circus) [map] provides another reminder of Soviet urban culture. Once a major entertainment venue, the building now feels like a fading relic from another era, illuminated at night more as a landmark than an active attraction. Close by is Chorsu Bazaar, a sprawling market that is lively enough to warrant a visit but increasingly filled with the same Chinese-made goods found across markets worldwide. The surrounding redevelopment of the old city is far less successful, with awkward pseudo-traditional architecture that ranks among the weakest examples of pastiche urbanism I encountered in Central Asia.
One of the more unusual residential projects is the Zhemchug (“Pearl”) [map], a Soviet housing complex inspired by the traditional Central Asian makhalla community concept. Apartments are arranged around elevated communal courtyards designed to encourage collective living among extended families. Another prominent landmark is the Tashkent TV Tower, completed in 1985, which still dominates the skyline and offers panoramic views across the capital alongside a surprisingly eccentric display of vintage cassette recorders.
Tashkent metro is the city’s greatest attraction
The Tashkent Metro is one of the city’s most impressive attractions and easily the most visually striking public transport system in Central Asia. Construction of the first line began in 1972 during the Soviet era, with the metro officially opening in 1977. Today the network has expanded to 50 stations, including the newer above-ground Circle Line, making it one of the easiest ways to explore Uzbekistan’s capital.
Unlike many former Soviet metro systems, the tunnels in Tashkent are relatively shallow, usually between 8 and 25 metres deep, so stations are quicker to access than those in Moscow or St Petersburg. Originally designed to double as nuclear bomb shelters, the metro carried military significance for decades and photography remained banned until 2018. Since the restriction was lifted, the Tashkent Metro has become a major tourist attraction, with visitors moving between stations to photograph Soviet mosaics, chandeliers and themed interiors.
Each station has its own architectural identity, ranging from cosmic Soviet futurism to ornate Uzbek-inspired decoration. Among the most memorable is Kosmonavtlar station [map], dedicated to Soviet cosmonauts of the 1960s and 1970s, with deep blue ceramic walls and portraits honouring the USSR’s space programme.
Despite its tourist appeal, the metro remains an essential part of daily life in Tashkent and can become extremely crowded during rush hour, especially in the city centre. Large tour groups following guides with raised flags often add to the congestion. Fares are very cheap by international standards and passengers can simply tap in using contactless bank cards. Frequent users may benefit from buying an ATTO transport card, which also works on many other public transport systems across Uzbekistan, although the accompanying ATTO app remains fairly limited in practice. Cash tokens are still available, and fares are fixed regardless of distance travelled
Economic reform and Tashkent’s changing skyline
Uzbekistan began extensive reforms in 2017, signalling a major shift away from a centrally planned economy towards a more market-oriented system. As the country’s capital and commercial centre, Tashkent has been the main beneficiary of this transformation. In 2023, Tashkent city accounted for 17% of Uzbekistan’s GDP, rising to 27% when the wider Tashkent region is included. The reforms have helped attract foreign investment, expand financial services and accelerate the development of modern commercial real estate, with the changing skyline now providing one of the clearest visual signs of the country’s economic transition.
New office districts are reshaping the city
One of the fastest-growing sectors has been financial services, which more than doubled in dollar terms in Tashkent between 2017 and 2023. Multinational companies are also increasingly examining Uzbekistan as an alternative regional base as the investment climate improves following the Russian-Ukraine war.
This economic growth has fuelled a wave of modern office development across the capital. The quality of new buildings has improved significantly, with several projects now approaching international standards. However, a structural weakness remains as many developers prefer selling individual office units and floors rather than retaining ownership and leasing space. While this provides strong short-term returns, it may create future maintenance challenges and limit the development of a more mature institutional property market.
Most Grade A and B office developments are concentrated around Tashkent City Park [map] and in the business districts north of Amir Temur Square. The largest project is the International Business Center “Tashkent City,” an 80-hectare mixed-use development backed by Uzbek and Turkish investment. Completed projects include the Summit Business Center, the Agrobank Building within the Central Plaza complex, and Nest One, which combines office and residential space within one of the tallest buildings in Uzbekistan.
Chart: Financial services output in Tashkent City
Retail and the rise of consumer Tashkent
Economic reform has also transformed Tashkent’s retail sector. The city now accounts for over a quarter of Uzbekistan’s retail spending, with expenditure reaching approximately US$6.5 billion in 2023, rising to US$8.85 billion when the surrounding region is included. Despite this growing consumer base, Tashkent long lacked modern retail infrastructure, with most shopping centres appearing outdated and poorly managed.
This changed significantly in 2024 with the opening of Tashkent City Mall [map], which serves as the retail centrepiece of the wider Tashkent City development. The mall contains around 300 retail units across 245,000 square metres and connects directly to the metro system. In both scale and presentation, it rivals many modern malls found in Kazakhstan and Turkey, reflecting the broader rise of consumer culture in Uzbekistan’s capital.
One particularly striking feature is the display of luxury vehicles throughout the complex, which have become a popular attraction in their own right. The mall still feels somewhat light on food and beverage offerings, but overall it represents a major leap forward for modern retail in the country.
Hotels and modern urban living
Chart: Supply of Upper-scale and Luxury hotel rooms in Tashkent
The growth of Tashkent’s economy has also driven a rapid expansion in hotels and residential developments. Since the mid-2010s, the supply of upper-scale and luxury hotel rooms has increased noticeably as international brands enter the market. Many of these projects form part of larger mixed-use developments, mirroring trends seen elsewhere globally.
Examples include the Hilton Tashkent City, located within the Tashkent City complex, while the Fairmont Tashkent, scheduled to open in 2025, will further strengthen the city’s growing luxury hotel market. For most visitors, however, mid-range hotels remain the primary option, with many offering relatively good value compared with other regional capitals.
Residential construction has also accelerated, although much of the new supply targets the mid-market rather than the luxury segment. Projects such as Garden Residence reflect this trend, while more architecturally ambitious developments include Akay City Residence [map], known for its sharp-edged contemporary design.
Despite the construction boom, short-term apartment rentals remain less common than in Kazakhstan or Kyrgyzstan due to Uzbekistan’s guest registration requirements. As a result, it can still be more difficult for visitors to experience everyday residential life in Tashkent compared with other cities in the region.
Tourism growth in Uzbekistan and visiting Tashkent today
Uzbekistan was once considered one of the more difficult destinations to visit in the former Soviet world due to strict visa rules, limited international connectivity, and its relatively remote location between Europe and East Asia. This began to change following the death of long-time president Islam Karimov in 2016, after which the government introduced reforms aimed at opening both the economy and the tourism sector. Although the Covid pandemic temporarily disrupted this momentum, international visitor numbers have since recovered strongly.
Most foreign travellers to Uzbekistan spend at least some time in Tashkent, usually for a day or two before continuing onwards to the Silk Road cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. In 2025, international arrivals surpassed — and then some — pre-pandemic levels, with close to 11.7 million visitors entering the country.
Chart: Visitors for tourism to Uzbekistan by year
However, the composition of Uzbekistan’s tourism market differs significantly from many traditional tourism destinations. More than 90% of visitors originated from Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) countries, particularly neighbouring Central Asian states and Russia, with the majority travelling to visit friends and relatives rather than for tourism purposes. Refugee numbers have also grown significantly, especially from Afghanistan. Chinese visitor numbers nearly trebled in 2025 following the introduction of a visa-free agreement in June 2025, so arrivals from China are likely to continue rising over the coming years.
Among longer-haul markets, South Korea emerged as the largest non-CIS source of visitors, with just over 46,000 arrivals in 2025, reflecting growing air connectivity and historical links between the two countries. The main European source markets were Germany and Italy, with around 43,000 visitors each. The fact that Central Asia remains a medium- or long-haul destination for most key tourism markets in Europe and East Asia will continue to act as a major constraint on future tourism growth.
While many travellers still treat Tashkent primarily as a transit point, the city itself is gradually becoming more appealing as infrastructure improves and investment reshapes the urban landscape. Unlike the heavily tourism-oriented atmosphere found in parts of Samarkand or Bukhara, Tashkent remains a functioning capital first and a visitor destination second, which arguably gives the city a more authentic and less performative feel.
Getting around Tashkent
Tashkent offers affordable and efficient transportation options. The elegant metro system, complemented by an extensive bus network, makes getting around the city relatively easy. I found Yandex Maps particularly useful for navigating bus routes and estimating journey times. However, avoid travelling during rush hour, as trains and buses can become extremely crowded, especially in the city centre.
Don’t miss the new Circle Line, which covers the southern part of the city. This overground route offers unusual views of Tashkent’s more industrial districts and connects with the older metro system at both terminals, although from different stations. While the airport is conveniently close to the city centre, it is not connected to the metro, making taxis the most practical option. I found Yandex Taxi reliable throughout Uzbekistan and never experienced any issues using it. Tashkent also generally felt safe, including in the evenings, although as with any large city it is sensible to keep valuables secure, particularly during crowded rush hour periods.
For intercity travel, trains depart from Tashkent’s main railway station, which is easily accessible via the metro. Spring and autumn are probably the best times to visit Uzbekistan, with dry weather and cooler temperatures making it far more comfortable to walk around cities such as Tashkent. Summers can become extremely hot, particularly during the afternoon.
ATTO cards are prepaid transport cards used on Tashkent public transport. Although they are sometimes advertised as usable in other Uzbek cities, this was not the case when I attempted to use one in Samarkand, which created a problem after boarding a bus without cash. The card costs 20,000 soums (2026), including a small, preloaded balance, while a single metro journey costs only around 1,700 soums (approximately 14 US cents) — remarkably cheap for what is arguably one of Central Asia’s main tourist attractions.
Money, registration and practical tips
Visitors to Uzbekistan should be aware of the legal requirement to collect registration slips from their accommodation providers. All the hotels I stayed in automatically supplied these documents, although immigration officials did not check them when I departed the country.
If travelling to Tashkent from Shymkent in Kazakhstan, consider taking the regular city bus from the border rather than paying for an overpriced taxi. Payments across Uzbekistan can often be made by tapping debit or credit cards with chips enabled, and I found my Wise card especially useful due to its low foreign exchange fees and lack of transaction charges.
One frustration in Uzbekistan is the widespread use of mandatory service charges in restaurants despite often mediocre service standards. The standard surcharge is usually around 15%, although I encountered one restaurant charging 20%. Another issue is currency exchange. Changing neighbouring currencies such as the Kazakh tenge can be surprisingly difficult or involve very poor exchange rates, so it is usually best to exchange or spend remaining cash before crossing into Uzbekistan.
Tonys' takeaway
Having an efficient and extensive public transport system always enhances the experience of a city enormously, and Tashkent certainly delivers on that front. The city is compact enough to navigate without feeling overwhelming, while still offering enough areas away from the main tourist locations to explore at a slower pace. Although it was my first visit, it felt clear that major changes were taking place, with significant real estate development gradually transforming the capital from a Soviet relic into an emerging economy increasingly connected to the global market.
Despite this, the city still retains a gritty edge, and I often sensed frustration beneath the surface, particularly during the frequent traffic altercations. Behind the glitzy new malls and office towers lies another side of Uzbekistan rooted more firmly in the past, still somewhat detached from the rapid changes unfolding around it. In many ways, Tashkent neatly encapsulates these two sides of the country within a single city.
